The Ultimaker original I have assembled fit work has had another hot end jam

3D Printing
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1

The Ultimaker original I have assembled fit work has had another hot end jam and I’m fed up as it takes ages to take apart to clean it.

Should I convert the Ultimaker to use an e3d hot end?

Perhaps using something like https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount

2

No matter how good your extruder, a jam is a jam. Will take a ton of force to break some jams. You haves a nice setup with the bull dog, but willing to bet your success is mostly due to the e3d… My advice for you, get an e3d as ultimakerh hot end sucks

3

Here in the U.S. we reprogram using a sledgehammer. Me personally, I threaten my devices with a rubber mallet that I actually don’t have.
But seriously, E3D is awesome. Money well spent. Get their lite6 if you don’t want to spend for the full performance v6. It’ll work fine on pla and abs.

4

I’ve got an e3d on my i3 at home and love it hence just seeing if it makes sense to swap out the Ultimaker setup as freeing things up drives me mutes each time.

5

I have an E3D V6 on my i3 and the Lite6 on my Makibox, I highly rate both variants…

6

Wades/gregs extruder works great for 1.75. No issues with printed gears, been using the same for over a year and I print non stop

7

I currently print with no extra gearing, direct drive 1.75 plus e3d… No extrusion issues ever. Nylon,pla, abs mostly. Flexible no problem

8

I’ll be sticking with 3mm for a while as we’ve got about 7 kilos of it to use up, and it’ll take a while. Mainly because I have a rule that you’re printing on the printer then you’re with the printer. It would be too easy for somebody to ignore an @OctoPrint ​ webcam window with all the distractions at work should something go wrong.

9

Everything is better with e3d hotend

10

I switched to an E3D for the same reason. My print quality improved but I still had frequent clogs until I switched to better filament… I’ve been clog free for 6 months now! #rehab