1/8th. I am guessing my material was above the focal point. I have the stock bed.
Ah, ok then. For 1/8" ply you should be able to to cut it in one pass at like 8ma and 10mm/s when you have the height set right.
To get the best cutting I usually set the height of the piece so the focal point is halfway into the wood.
1 Like
I do not have an adjustable bed, sadly. Gotta figure that out. I like the idea of the spring adjustable ones.
Here’s a list of possible bed options.
You can also search the forum for a lot of other builds.
Here’s a quick an simple bed I did when I first got my laser.
3 Likes
Excellent, thank youn
1 Like
Here is a collection of my K40 shop tips that you might find useful.
4 Likes
can you let me know where you bought your laser or what person selling them on ebay?
I bought mine on alibaba. The seller seems good enough.
I cannot speak to the quality of the machine yet. I have only had it for four days.
US $422.75 5%OFF | Digital 3020 Woodworking 40W Engraving Cutting CO2 Laser USB Machine with Update Control Panel
1 Like
I think the simplest option for the moment is a lab jack. I know that there has to be stuff in here but all that I have really found is people asking about them, not in how to make them work with the k40.
2 Likes
Hmmm…it’s been awhile since I’ve seen anyone use a labjack. I think @funinthefalls may have used one at one point?
Essentially you will need to mount a bigger bed to the top of the lab jack platform. I think I remember someone using a metal plate mounted to the top of the platform. You would then want something to stand the work off the surface of the plate to avoid flashback on your workpiece and prevent buildup of oily wood residue. I think I remember the person using metal studs in the lab jack build? Can’t find the build in question. Might be able to use magnets as standoffs if your plate is steel.
2 Likes
After more review, I don’t think a lab jack is a good idea. The adjustment knob moves in the vertical axis so you need a hole in the case that accommodates that.
Instead, I think that I am going to build or buy a manual z-axis table like this one:
1 Like
I have been happy with the Lightobject powered table.
1 Like
I looked at that. For now, I am going to save a bit of money and buy the manual version from above. It can be converted to powered if I choose to do that in the future.
I am thinking about trying to add better LEDs to the interior of the cutting compartment. I need to see what kind of information I can find online about that. I have not messed with LEDs before. The entirety of my electonics experience revolves around amateur radio.
3 Likes
Pretty much any LED light strip will work.
There are many choices on amazon look for ones with the best customer scores and adhesive backing. I use 12v white.
You will need to decide what voltage you want for your accessories as you cant add any more load to your LPS.
I chose 12V for my accessories as most of the less expensive add ons (like gauges) were 12V.
I added a 12V supply (https://amzn.to/2LB4L4C) which are also pretty inexpensive with lots of choices on amazon.
3 Likes
Thanks, Don. I am looking at a secondary power supply for added electronics and such. My air assist is working out great. I need to work on my ventilation. Right now I have just run 16 feet of semi-rigid duct out of my garage (under the door, so it is freezing) and around the side of my house. I have to find a 6" hole saw to cut through the wall to install a vent.
3 Likes
I am also happy to report that during the extended period (around 90 minutes) that I worked on the hippo engraving, the water temp in my 27 gallon tote (with 20 gallons of distilled water in it) rose only 2ºF.
3 Likes
Mark a hole and saw it. A 6" hole saw wouldn’t be manageable with a hand drill. What kind of siding do you have?
It blows my mind that the closed loop belt goes under the laser beam. I mean, I guess it must work OK but it’s not what I would have expected! I still plan to route my Z belts away from the laser beam. 
If you make your own lift table, I can recommend zyltech.com as the only consistent and reasonable US source I’ve found of single-start metric trapezoidal rod. single-start doesn’t back-drive, and metric is nice because of cheap bearings. I’m using T8x2 because 8mm shaft diameter lets me use very cheap and widely available 608 (“skateboard”) bearings. I just got a set of 4 400mm T8x2 and they came well packaged (survived UPS puncturing the box) and straight.
2 Likes
I have brick on one wall and vinyl on the other. I plan to go through the vinyl. Yea, I was concerned about it not being doable with a drill… I have an cordless drill and a heavy duty corded drill but I don’t know that either could do it. Could I use a jigsaw? I don’t particularly want to mess it up.
I completely understand that concern. I have seen a lot like that though. Do people think that because it is so far below the focal point that the beam is unfocused (and therefore does no damage)?