Adding a bit more detail to what @kibodwin kindly said: connected to the limit switch, you will find two wires. If you don’t, you’ve already found the problem. With careless shipping, wires knocked loose from the limit switch would result in what you saw if they are NO (Normally Open) switches (or NO/NC switches being used in the NO configuration). The control board will see no difference between “not at the limit yet” and “switch not even connected”. In that case, you might find that the switch has three connections and you don’t know which two of the three connections on the switch to use. If so, you’ll want to connect the wires to the inside post and one outside post that is labelled NO, or which you determine with a multimeter does not connect to the middle post when the switch is not depressed, and does conduct when the switch is depressed.
If that’s not the case, track those two wires to the control board. “work your way up” probably looks like this: Remove the plug from the control board, and check for continuity across the connector. It probably has a place where the contacts are exposed that you can touch the multimeter probe to. Check for change in continuity when you activate the switch. If that works, back to the limit switch at the other end of the cable, and check that the switch works. Fortunately, limit switches are inexpensive.
All that is in addition to @Domm434’s points, which are far more extensive checks that sound like a good idea generally!