So, putting the multimeter to the red power switch gets a readout of 1 when the switch is off and bounces around when it’s in the on position. Trying the same thing on the machine switch and estop next to it does not change whether on or off.
Also tried different power outlet and still no response. Should I try a different multimeter setting for the machine switch and the estop? I tested the screws holding the leads onto the switchest. Should I be doing it a different way?
How do I best go about testing the socket on the back of the machine?
Post pictures to make it clear what you’re testing.
Most multimeters have a continuity setting that buzzes or beeps when they detect continuity, thus you’ll hear of testing continuity as “buzzing out” a circuit. Much easier than trying to look at it.
Looks like your multimeter doesn’t have that feature.
Have you asked the seller to replace your non-functional machine? If you understood circuit diagnosis and it was easier for you to to just fix it, I could see just fixing it, but with a non-functional machine and no clear end in sight for problems, when it was DOA in the first place, I would suggest it’s the right time for you to ask the seller to make it right.
I immediately let the seller know the situation, and their reluctance to refund me initially lead to me attempting to troubleshoot the situation. If I can actually fix this thing, I’d like to… as this is seriously killing my productivity right now. If I can be walked through how to figure this out, I would sincerely appreciate it. I’d like to not give up until I’ve exhausted my ability to try, then I can fight for my refund without question.
We can try and walk you through the troubleshooting but we need to be methodical and get as much visual information as possible from you.
From above tests it looks like: 1st switch Power on switch: when off the meter reads open when on it varies, the above meter showed 9.3 ohms
Note: I would not expect its close position to read 9 ohms, more like 0.x ohms. What does your meter read if you short the leads together?
2cnd switch [not sure what this switch is] reads open across the top two contacts in both on and stop positions
Note: Those pins may not be the input and output pins of the switch
Lets reset the testing…
Send a picture of the entire control panel just to insure we have the switch layout to reference.
Trace, then draw the AC wiring from the input plug to the laser power supply?
It should be pretty straightforward: input plug > power on switch>Estop>Laser Power Supply.
Include both sides of the line, wire colors and any component connector labels.
With this drawing we will have a reference that will allow us to tell you were to place the meter and get a reading.
There is a input power voltage switch on the side of the LPS but this should not stop the unit from powering up?
Also is seemed the machine worked for a while??
However anything is possible at this point. @CPUnltd pls check that the AC voltage selector switch on the LPS is in the correct position.
The machine did work for all of aobut 20 minutes (where the x axis limit switch was not responding properly, so it was grinding when turned on). I did not see the switch that you were suggesting for the AC voltage.
Sorry for the silence. Life kind of got in the way of figuring this thing out and ate up all the time I had left before I got dangerously close to my return time limit. So I have started the return process at this time and intend on getting my money back for now. I won’t close the conversation until I’ve actually put the machine in the mail because I may open it back up if, for some ridiculous reason, I am unable to return it and get my refund. I refuse to sit on a non-functioning machine. If it doesn’t finalize, then I’ll be back and we’ll go through all the motions to figure this out. If it does go through, then I’ll close the thread. Thank you all for the help you’ve given so far. It IS appreciated.
