I have to get me a new printing plate. From your experience, what is the best plate to use for ABS?
Plate? Do you mean like a surface to print on? Most people use borosilicate glass. There’s a growing movement towards using some “glue” on the glass, as well. Im sure some of the others will be able to help out more. Good luck!
-RT
window glass with kapton tape and a little ABS juice. (Acetone mixed with ABS) Apply a light coat or it will take a lot of work to remove the part from the glass.
Glass that is cleaned with a non-residue cleaner. If the parts don’t stick a light coating of hairspray might work…
I tried glass, but adhesion is minimal. Even if i used Aceton with ABS in it larger prints often got loose. What did work was roughening the glas with some sandpaper and then use ABS/Aceton, but i never get the glas rough in a more or less uniform way. Did anyone ever try sandblasting?
So far the best method i tried was a CFK plate, it wore down after a while and is expensive though.
@Justin_Hubbard Perfboard? What i sthat?
@Gabriel_Petrut I’ll check out what they do with the MakiBox, but i’m somehow in doubt that a simple steel plate will work.
Thanks for all your input on this.
I use ordinary glass over a heated PCB with a large square of Kapton on top. Aqua Net hairspray helps too. Some people rough up the Kapton but I haven’t and I have pretty good resuls.
I’ve always just used regular window-pane glass at 115C. No kapton, no sanding, just regular ol’ glass.
@ThantiK When i tried with >100°C for the bed in the past i always got what i call an elephant foot, the print was wider at the bottom. I did not try it with glas at that time though so i’ll give that a go 
@Justin_Hubbard Ah ok, yes that sounds worth a try. I actually thought about putting the dremel in my reprap and make it cut grooves in the glas. I didn’t do it though because of the glas powder.
@ThantiK I tried it on glas with the plate @110°C (measured on the top of the plate) and the print warps and i get the elephant foot 