Anyone have ever used blue painters tape for PETG? Honestly im getting tired of trying diferent setups, and glass + air spray is becoming toxic in my room.
Heres my specs
236c heaterblock
0c bed
0.4 nozzle
0.2 resolution
110% extrusion first layer
0.100 first layer heigth
2 mm Retraction
I can print with this, my only issue its the bed adhesion, i get none on blue painters tape and i dont wana use air spray, i allways use glass for the bed, any sugestions??
Bump the bed to between 70 and 80 C.
I can’t attest to grip for PETG, but Wolfbite for ABS/PETG is available on the market.
I’m using it now and for the prints for the last two days for ABS. It grips like nothing else I’ve found, but is almost an automatic release when the bed cools.
I understand the product had a bad rep when it first came out, due to a bad formulation. I might have received some of that stuff. It appeared in my use as peeling off bits of glass from the bed as it cooled. The latest batch is working great.
The bottle reads that it expires 30 days after opening and the guy in charge emailed me that it’s supposed to have a vinegar smell. If the smell is missing, it is expired. I’ve been sealing the bottle as best as I can and then using a food-saver vacuum bagger to hold the bottle and foam applicator brush.
I’m well beyond the 30 days. Last night the printer finished a job as I was retiring for the evening. I could hear the bed cooling and the pops and snaps generated by the thermal expansion differences. I was sure that the morning would bring me a pocked glass bed, but it was clean and smooth. The following print remained the same.
If the behavior for PETG matches that of ABS, you’d have a good shot at things. Bed temps would have to be higher than your indicated 0 degrees C, however. How do you get the bed to be at freezing level and more important, why?
I use fablam it sticks to your build plate. The only problem I have is it sticks to well. I have to let it cool to room temp before I can get it off.
I have never used hairspary on my printer personally. Elmer’s Purple glue stick has always worked great for me and works for PETG too.
I worked on a client’s printer recently. He used hairspray on his. The amount of hairspray residue caked onto the extruder’s heatsink, rails, belts, heating element, and every other part of the printer reinforced my decision to never allow hairspray to be used on my printers. Might be ok if you took the build plate off and into another room to spray it, but anyone spraying it on their printers is asking for problems down the road.
PETG sticks almost too well to bare glass if using a heated bed. I use the glue stick basically as a “release” barrier to avoid taking shards of glass out when the part is removed.
@lightshadown when I first got into printing I heard that you could just print right on the glass so I was determined to make it work because I didn’t want the chemicals and all the work. I print all the time with zero adhesive and right on the glass without issue. First off I only use pla so keep that in mind. I set the bed to 65c with 0 fan speed. For me the fan HAS to be off and I keep it off for the first 10 layers at .2mm layer height. Once I get there, I drop the bed down to 50c and turn the fan on 50%. Too much fan will cause the print to peal up. Once you get the settings dialed in to just print on the glass, it’s awesome. Zero clean up. All I do is wipe the dust off with a microfiber cloth before I print and I’m good to go. You’ll have to play with your bed temp and fan %. Too warm of a bed keeps your plastic too soft and too cold allows it to warp. Too much fan and fan too soon will cause it to warp. Try printing some fan grill covers for tests. They are flat and cover a decent amount of surface area so they are nice for testing without using too much plastic.
@Fred_U ok, sorry its not 0 degress, its at room temperature, thats 32 where i live, it was meant to describe i was using an unheated bed, just that.
Wolfbite, yes i have seen that product but never understand why they charge so much for 4 oz ($30 + shipping) and i was looking for something cheaper, thats why i went the air spray direction, but i simply cant stand the smell, the same happend with ABS but i got the buildtak sheet and i was looking for something similar but for PETG, cant find anything
@Adam_Steinmark just raise the temp of the bed? no extra stuff on the painters tape? will try tomorrow when i get a new tape
@Jason_D do you mind sharing your bed temperature for PETG? last time i used a heated bed it had hair spray @ 50c, will try using no chemicals and up to 120c and see what happends. im kinda tired of PETG at this momment.
I only got to about 60°-70°C with PETG or T-glase. Any hotter than that and you risk it adhering to the glass so well that it will remove shards from the bed. I use cheap window glass. Borosilicate glass might tolerate a bit more heat but PETG can be impossible to remove if printed too hot. I don’t recommend trying 120°
Regardless of what surface you use, make sure it is clean. Some filaments like PLA print well on bare glass, but oil from fingerprints, etc can negatively effect adhesion. Cleaning the glass before printing, especially if it has been sitting a few days collecting dust can make a big difference.
How about buildtak?, i have seen some people get excellent prints but i cant get adhesion, heated @ 90c the bed, i get barely adhesion, i start to think its the filament itself
I use eSun PETG
From http://Buildtak.com FAQ
“Works with ABS, PLA, HIPS, PET+, Brick, Wood & Flexible (TPE) filaments; additionally we have had success with getting nylon and t-glase (PETT) to adhere when used with a thin layer of washable glue stick on the BuildTak surface.”
While these groups are great and people are happy to help out, there is a great wealth of knowledge already online that isn’t too hard to search out 
This is the times i really hate 3d printing, i manage to get excellent bed adhesion… just by changing my first layer Height
for some odd reason i went from using my trusty Glass + Buildtak setup to a lot of randoms setups, but like the said goes "I havent fail at all, I just found 99 ways that dosent works
My Settings for eSun PETG
235c Head
70c Bed
Glass + Buildtak
0.4 nozzle
0.2 Layer Height
0.4 First Layer Height !!!
40mm/s Draw speed
5mm/s First Layer speed
0.100 Z Adjust for first Layer
2mm Retraction/Prime Speed
3 loops Skirt (for priming the filament, PETG can be tricky)
yes i had a PETG blockade, but i can fix that
missing/deleted image from Google+
tip about using blue painters tape: wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol, especially if fresh. Most blue tape has a light waxy coating on it that deters adhesion. I had issues with it until I learned this.
I use UHU glue stick for all my prints including PETG. For the latter I tend to spread it a little thicker in order to avoid it ripping out glass. Release can either be done quickly by putting the glass bed into the freezer for a few minutes, or just hanging around and waiting.