So after thinking my controller burned out I bought a new one and had it next day’d to my front door. I connected the new board and it has the same issue the first one had. I took it over to another computer (where my laser resides with smoothie) and it connected immediately. So I think it’s a driver issue but I can’t figure it out. Can anyone recommend something to try? I’ve switched drivers, removed old drivers, changed com ports, baud rate, etc. I think it has something to do with Windows 10 (laser computer is Win7). Funny enough this WAS working just fine and then suddenly stopped… I don’t have Windows updates on so nothing auto updated. I’m really stumped and looking for suggestions.
Thanks!
The documentation says not to install the drivers on Windows 10. Win10 already has drivers included and installing our driver can mess things up completely. I think you’re good for using another computer or re-installing/resetting windows.
I read the documentation and I’m aware of that. I didn’t try new drivers until last resort. Sort of at the point of grasping at straws. On a side note I’m done for a while. I let the smoke out when connecting the usb. I have no idea what happened. I’m very frustrated at the moment. Thanks for the advice though.
It should never smoke just on USB there simply is not enough current. Make sure you don’t have a ground fault on your Computer or main outlets, if there is voltage on the ground that would be a serious (and dangerous) issue. (I once had a broken Neutral return in the USA, and the voltage differential burned several cables out!).
@Wolfmanjm , after some poking around I realized I do have a grounding issue. My 24v supply chassis was live and I know that’s not right. I think my a.c. outlets aren’t correct and I created a dangerous ground loop (for lack of a better term).
That would do it.Make sure you have grounded outlets too and everything is plugged into the same outlet.
I used my dmm to measure the outlet. I got the following:
L-N = 120VAC
L-G = 120VAC
N-G = 0VAC
L-power supply chassis = 120VAC
G-power supply chassis = 0VAC
N-power supply chassis = 0VAC
I believe this is correct with the exception of the live power supply chassis. I’m terrified I’m going to blow up another controller. I just ordered yet another one. This will be the 3rd one. I’m going to make a diagram of what I have going on here and post it. Hopefully you smart guys can help me diagnose it @Wolfmanjm and @donkjr 
It’s a real bummer. I was so hoping to have the router running this weekend. I am convinced now that my communication issues and the trouble I’ve had with everything electronic wise is a result of the cheap power supplies I’m using. I don’t think they’re built very well.
My laser setup has meanwell power supplies and although they work great they were expensive…
Double check your PSU chassis is grounded and there is no short to Live or neutral. Make sure your power outlets are correctly grounded as well (may need an electrician to do that). In old houses quite often the ground pin is not connected to anything.
@Wolfmanjm , I verified that there is no continuity between live and neutral. I do have continuity between ground and chassis. Here is a block diagram of my setup for the most part. Do you see anything out of the ordinary here or any potential ground loops I might be creating? Of course there is a PC connected via usb to this setup that I left off. When the 24v supply is connected I have 120v between Line and Chassis. Could this have wiped out my setup? I know it’s dangerous but would it have fried the controller?
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I do not remember, are you in Australia?
Measure the resistance of the PS chassis to the grnd/neutral and hot connections.
What PS are you using [link]?
… your measurements suggest that your mains are ok.
I like this plug to be sure that hot and neutral are not reversed which can create some weird problems on some equipment.
Hi @donkjr , here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1PRE60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am in the States. Measuring resistance resulted in 1.6k between ac ground and -24 output. All other connections were 0.
I think I have access to that tester. I’ll see if I can go get it today and double check everything.
I’m still baffled as to what happened when I connected the USB. I simply blew up the board. I heard it arc (as I was looking at the USB connection on the back of the PC). By the time I looked up there was just a puff of smoke.
Does your 24v supply read 24v to dc gnd ? Try measuring it’s output on AC scale?
@donkjr , I measure 120vac between ac line and dc -24 and between line and dc +24 with an a.c. scale.
@Chuck_Comito lets recap to prevent me from being confused. Sorry to be redundant.
The AC-in to the 24VDC supply reads 120VAC from Line (L) to Neutral (N).
L to safety ground reads 120VAC
N to safety ground read 0VAC
L to power supply chassis = 120VAC
Measuring volts on the 24vdc supply:
Between +V and COM there is 24mvAC ?
+V to COM reads +24VDC
The case of the 24V supply to safety ground reads ?
The case of the 24V supply to COM reads?
On the ohms scale with AC power disconnected :
COM to safety ground =__?
Notes:
Likely the COM, Safety grnd and the chassis are all tied together inside the supply. At least the safety grnd should be connected to the chassis. You can check with ohm meter.
The Safety ground is tied to N back in your power box.
Therefore L to safety ground should read 120VAC, and it does.
Therefore L to the chassis will read 120VAC and it does.
If safety ground to the chassis = 0 ohms and the safety ground is tied to the ground pin on the outlet, you do not have an unsafe condition. In fact if under these circumstances the case was hot it would have blown the house breaker when plugged in.
I think something else is wrong!? However I do not see anything wrong with your wiring diagram.
Is is possible you got 24VDC reversed on the smoothie?
I would reconnect everything but the smoothie, turn it on and measure smoothie DC supply.
BTW its a good idea to install a fuse block in these DC circuits to try (no guarantee) and prevent damage like this :).
Good morning @donkjr , No worries on the redundancy. I know these things are hard when you’re not in front of it.
This is a correct statement:
The AC-in to the 24VDC supply reads 120VAC from Line (L) to Neutral (N).
L to safety ground reads 120VAC
N to safety ground read 0VAC
L to power supply chassis = 120VAC
Measuring volts on the 24vdc supply: AC Setting on DMM
Between +V and COM there is 24mvAC ? Yes
+V to COM reads +24VDC No, it reads about 24mVAC on a AC scale and 0 VDC.
The case of the 24V supply to safety ground reads 1.5mVAC
The case of the 24V supply to COM reads 34mVAC
On the ohms scale with AC power disconnected :
COM to safety ground =Fluke meter say -OL (open circuit).
As far as something else being wrong I’m really stumped. At the time it blew up, I didn’t have the 24vdc connected to the smoothie at all.
Here is the full scenario and it doesn’t make sense.
Tuesday evening I was messing with the config file pretty much all night and everything was electrically and mechanically working. I was simply dialing everything in. I reset the board many time that evening. Late in the night I was satisfied with my progress and decided to shut it down. I disconnected the COM port from the smoothie, powered down the 24v supply and went to bed. At this point the USB was still connected.
The next day I went to finish up and had communication errors. I tried all sorts of things from drivers to regedits to different computers. None of this worked and I determined the serial communications on the controller somehow fried.
I ordered another controller and had it next day’d to my door. I swapped out the controllers and had the same communication error so I removed the laptop I was using and went and got the PC i was using with the laser (after all I know this one works as it is already running smoothie.).
I reconnected everything and the last thing to plug in was the USB to the smoothie. As soon as the cable touched the USB input, I heard snap crackle pop and the board was dead… VERY DEAD.
I suppose it could be a fluke but with 2 boards down and a 3rd on its way, I honestly can’t afford another one. I need to verify I’m correct before hooking up the new one.
By the way, can I kill a smoothie with a bad config file? I know I can screw it up from booting or loading the firmware but I can’t “kill it” right?? Sounds silly but who know.
I suppose its possible to turn on or off a pin and accidentally send voltage the wrong way and kill it right?
@Chuck_Comito Morning …
I do not see any way that a bad configuration can fry a controller.
…
You posted; As far as something else being wrong I’m really stumped. At the time it blew up, I didn’t have the 24vdc connected to the smoothie at all. _
Then further down you posted: I reconnected everything and the last thing to plug in was the USB to the smoothie. As soon as the cable touched the USB input, I heard snap crackle pop and the board was dead… VERY DEAD.
When you connected the USB [in the above scenario ] was the 24v connected?
…
You posted: +V to COM reads +24VDC No, it reads about 24mVAC on a AC scale and 0 VDC.
What does it read on DC scale?
…
What does the resistance between the supply’s case and the safety ground read __ ohms?
If plugging in the USB killed it then the USB had a rogue voltage on it, maybe the PC has a bad ground and the USB shell was at a high voltage?
It is not possible to permanently kill (or brick) a smoothieboard with a bad config.
@donkjr
When I connected the usb the 24v was not connected.
It read 0 vdc on a dc scale.
Case to ground was open. No resistance.