My first few prints with Taulman 618 Nylon (1.75mm) on a Tantillus -  Amazing

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discussion
(Richard Horne) #1

My first few prints with Taulman 618 Nylon (1.75mm) on a Tantillus -

Amazing layer bonding with this material, even at low (220 deg C ) temperatures.

Strong but flexible.

Just printing on cold Blue 3M tape at the moment, not much warp.

(Juli Fowler) #2

Nice. Can’t wait to try nylon…

(Daniel Norée) #3

Looking good!

(ThantiK) #4

How slick is it? Could printed bearings actually be worth doing for once?

(Richard Horne) #5

It would be interesting to see how it wears and you may need to make more of a solid bushing rather than the ‘spiral’ types of PLA LM8UU replacements used by some.
But it feels quite smooth and slick, the best quality finish I have seen, even better than a well tuned ABS print.

(Steve Lynch) #6

@ThantiK I was looking at http://www.snowrepublic.co.uk/Tools/Base-Repair/Snoli-Surface-Repair-Wire for a similar purpose but haven’t had a chance to play with it yet. Ptex is apparently a brand name for http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-high-molecular-weight_polyethylene

(Tony Hine (Nifty Access)) #7

#reprap

(Florian Echtler) #8

Any danger of hazardous fumes? IIRC nylon might be problematic there?

(ThantiK) #9

@Florian_Echtler there have already been tests. - http://www.instructables.com/id/Is-3D-Printing-Safe-or-DIY-Testing-for-HCN-from-/ - it’s perfectly fine.

(Florian Echtler) #10

@ThantiK great, good to know

(Thomas Sanladerer) #11

He tested only for HCN that time, which might not be the only toxic chemical released from the Nylon filament. I’m sticking to ABS for now, but I’ll talk to my plastics god professor about it when i get a chance.

(Tony Hine (Nifty Access)) #12

PLA is best for public areas …

(Alberto Valero Gomez) #13

where have you bought it?? can you print with it with a standard nozzle (let’s say BuddaschNozzle)

(Richard Horne) #14

You can buy it directly from Taulman3D - http://taulman3d.com/buy-618-175mm.html

I’m printing with a J-head nozzle on a Bowden setup, so BuddaschNozzle should also work fine.

Many people have printed it at temperatures of +240 - to +250

I started at +240 and am down to +220 and it looks like you can go quite a bit lower.

It does not like mixing with PLA, a bit of smoke for the first 20mm purged material, then clean printing. but it does not like being heated in a pool under your nozzle, so don’t over purge at the start, just do more outlines to get the flow going before printing the object.

(Alberto Valero Gomez) #15

great!! THANKS!

(Alberto Valero Gomez) #16

I have bought two spools :slight_smile: @Richard_Horne where is your printer located? I want to know for “safety” regarding the fumes. I have it at home.

(Michael Moskie) #17

What kind of temps are you printing with? You said it even works at 220, but is there a better one?

(Richard Horne) #18

I think you’ll like it, it’s a very interesting print material.
This printer is in the house, I printed for about 3 hours, didn’t notice any fumes. And I always feel a little sick after printing with ABS, so Nylon seems to be an improvement so far.

(Michael Moskie) #19

ABS fumes seem to linger for quite some time after you stop using it. @Josef_Prusa mentioned something about no fume ABS on Twitter some time ago.

(Richard Horne) #20

@Michael_Moskie Yes, I can’t see any difference in print strength or quality when printing at 220 or 240, so I’ll try going even lower next time and see what happens.
At 240 it does go brown when stuck on the hot-end for a few minutes, so I’m keen to keep the temperature as low as possible.