When removing the X axis connector from the stock M2 Nano board to hook up my mini gerbil controller, I pulled all of the wires out of the connector. I couldn’t get them back in and now I’m assuming I need to somehow put the wires back into the connector. Does anyone know what that type of connector is called, and where I can buy it at?
Greetings Mike and Welcome.
Can you provide a picture of the cable connector so we can be sure what connector you are dealing with?
Thanks for the quick response! I was actually wrong, and it’s the power connector. I.e. the one labeled LO 5V GND 24V. 
Sorry, I can only do 1 pic per post still…
you might find it on this page:
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/group/wire_to_board_connectors
maybe SPOX type? pretty sure its a Molex connector 
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I believe it’s Molex as well. So you are saying you pulled the wires out of the crimped sleeves inside the connector?
(Also since you are obviously not a spammer I’ve bumped your trust level up so you can post more than one picture 
)
Found this in my Digikey orders, must have bought one before:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/640250-4/A19952-ND/259226
[check the dimensions]
and this one on amazon, price with shipping is nuts:
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Hi Mike, the connectors can be bought from RS online, Element14 or DigiKey. Search for 0.1 pins pitch 2.54mm for example https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/3-640441-4/A30980-ND/698223
Also available from JayCar in Oz… see https://www.jaycar.com.au/4-pin-0-1-header-with-crimp-pins-2-54-pitch/p/HM3404
If you’re having trouble, I can post one in the mail for you (just contact awesome.tech)
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Do you still have pins stuck in the plastic piece you have, or did the pins come out?
Note that buying new plastic won’t help you if you didn’t damage the plastic in pulling out the pins; in that case the old plastic housing will be OK. The real need might be for pins and a crimp tool?
You can typically remove pins from the plastic housing with careful application of a jeweler’s screwdriver to slightly pry the tang out of the way, and another tiny screwdriver to push the pin out of the housing. If you bend the plastic tang too much, it won’t hold the pin any more.
If you need to put new pins on the wires, some of the crimp tools are surprisingly expensive. Many people swear by the Precision PA-09 as a general-purpose crimp tool; I’ve found that I get fine crimps from a less-expensive SN-28B style crimper (I use the IWISS version, by chance). My PA-09 crimper took something like 2.5 months to arrive, and I’ve ended up continuing to use the SN-28B most of the time anyway because in a single operation it handles both the wire and insulation crimps.
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Wow. Thanks for the overwhelmingly helpful responses. Yes, I did mess up the pins trying to crimp them without the right crimping tool, so I just wanted to start fresh. I literally couldn’t have asked for anything more helpful. This community is outstanding!
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There are probably 17 bajillion youtube videos on how to use an SN-28B crimper, but the one that I happened to watch was this one:
I’ve gotten to the point of not using my fingernail to index the pin, but it was a fine way to get started.
I don’t know whether it’s the right size for the pins matching that housing, but there’s a good chance. Feel free to post pictures/links for the pins you pulled out/found.
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Well, after several weeks my replacement pins finally came in, but they were different than the ones in the original connector. I just crimped them on and put them directly to the pins as shown here
Yea, its not pretty, my first crimp job on pins… Anyway, my gantry moves fine in the X and Y axis, but the laser will not fire when running a cut or engrave. The laser will fire fine when using the laser test switch on the machine. I’m using Lightburn and I’ve checked every setting I know to check. Any ideas?
See if this helps you find the problem?