In the past I tried a fan on ABS, 20~50% as some people reported better results and the result was always worse as some other people reported, LOL. I tried 30% part fan at 240C and no change, but I will try 50, 70 and 100% at 245C as “ABS+” is not “ABS” (maybe more than is realised?) @Francis_Lee In terms of “too hot” yes it looked that way if it was PLA but I went down to 215C and the curling and lifting off the bed was massive, the curling was less at 240C+ but I will try it without an enclosure also. I will also try 270C as 260C looked like 240C. Kind of surprised since this eSun ABS+ been out a while that so few have tried it. @Nathan_Walkner , good idea I was wondering on that though Ive had perfect ABS 20mm blocks. I find the 20mm blocks get me ball park for especially flow and temp then tweaking as needed…this time.
I agree with the first layer said by @Nathan_Walkner . Top curling after the fact is usually excess heat, where the top layer is still soft, and at corners it’ll stick to the nozzle when it’s passing over and then curl up, like how people curl ribbons with a flat edge. After that the problem gets worse with each layer until that corner flattens itself out again.
It seems like maybe you have a bum batch of ABS+ because in comparison the Amazon reviews are incredibly favorable.
Also your 220C looks halfway decent… Can you reproduce that?
I have no issues with bed adhesion (not unless I am silly), its the curling later on that is an issue. So I find on glass for PLA 60C, PETG 90C and ABS 100C and a brim with cheap hairspray usually gets me perfect adhesion. Dropping 5c off those and yes sure I start to get curl, 10C and a lot of curl. Ive tried 105C and 110C also seems to be similar to 100C so Ive not gone higher, for ABS+ though 110C might be better. My thought is its cooling too fast so I might need a hotter/heated enclosure. I might try dropping the flow a bit more as well but I am down to 95%…
@Francis_Lee , yeah I thought 220C looked nicer as did 240~245C. I will have a go and redo 220C and also try 218C. 215C was terrible (85C bed and 110C bed) , 222C not as good which means a very tight control.
I wondered on a bad / poor roll. I have ABS+ in white and in Green both seem similar output but they both could be old. I have no idea how long they sat on the sellers shelf but he has only just started up selling eSun but it could have been a long time in a warehouse I suppose.
Yeah I had some bad PETG I could hear it “crackling” as the moisture boiled off and it printed very badly like serious under-extrusion.
So I tuned PID tuned the hotend and tested so didnt get much chance to run more then 3 tests. I tried 218C and it curled badly like 215C, 265C at 105C bed and got a tiny amount of curl off the glass, top curl just as bad as 240C. 270C and 110Cbed, no bed adhesion problems but the usual curl. I think by 270C we have reached as hot as is sensible. So 240~260C and a 110C bed (maybe 115C?) seems the best range to work in. I intend to try 100% cooling fan but single sided tonight to see if the side nearest the fan improves or not v the other.
So a Wanhao D6 as stock only has single sided cooling, the RHS (right hand side). As you can see the RH 2 corners came out very well. So Ive fitted my home grown LHS fan and I will re-run this at 100% part cooling fan. So its looking more positive with a lot of cooling, but I shouldn’t count my chickens before they are hatched. 245C~255C bed 110C+ with some high % of fan might work (30% didnt).
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Isnt it. I tried a second run with my fan installed on the LHS but I hadnt totally baked the HTPLA so it sagged and touched the build plate due the heat of the enclosure. Before I aborted the print (at about 2mm high) though I was getting a similar improvement on the left hand side I think but with signs of slight curl off the buildplate (115C bed temp) just starting. Anyway tonight I need to print a new LHS fan assembly and bake it properly in the oven at 90C. I suppose I’ve also assumed an enclosure is best as its “ABS” maybe its nothing like “real” ABS but a new unique filament. So once I have the LHS fan replaced I will try various fan speeds, say start at 80% fan and maybe even with no enclosure to see how it works out. Still at least I have some sort of envelope around 250C to explore now…
eSun ABS+ So 250C both sides 100% part fan 115C bed. Some curling off bed but the finish is good, now to fine tune. I will try less fan
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top view. You can see the slight issue up to 1mm layers or so, maybe bed too hot? 115C …hmmmm
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That looks great! However… what the heck do you have that requires 250C/115C??? That’s not much of an improvement over most “regular” ABS.
Its only $2 more a roll than regular eSun ABS but I got the ABS+ to try because its supposed to shrink a lot less so makes more accurate parts and its supposed to be stronger as I am making my second 3d printer, a D-bot. I am also making my own stormtrooper armour so if its stroner and more accurate it might be a good solution. Dis-advanatges are you cant smooth it in acetone steam bath it to smooth it nor glue it “as easily” so its an experiemnt. I tried 70% fan part its about the same or maybe curls slightly more but bed adhesion seemed to be better. Next I will try and compare 115c bed to 110c bed. I will also try no enclosure as I think 100% fan seemed better than 70% fan, maybe this stuff is nothing like “real” ABS. If it doesnt need an enclosure maybe its ideal for prusa 3i machines, worth a go. Otherwise for std ABS I am going to have to heat the enclosure I suspect and allow its temp to cool slowly not impossible using an arduino…
I am also going to pick up a roll of that no name ABS in white if I can, it printed really well in purple and was cheaper than anything else Ive seen.
Yeah… thanks for sharing your experiment! Supposedly ABS+ can smooth “a little bit” with acetone brushing. But that’s way too much trouble and lots of heat to push out ABS+ correctly.
Ive only had a wanhao D6 7months so I was hoping for more experienced people could help. Never mind bouncing ideas did help, thanks. So so far I am still at 250C and 100% fan seems essential and starting it very low like 0.5mm. trying 110C down from 115C currently.
I’m going to necropost this thread because it seems like the most on-topic.
I buy all my filament from MatterHackers and they constantly send me eSUN ABS+ instead of eSUN ABS. I get it replaced every time, but they often do not want a return. So I throw several boxes of ABS+ in the trash every other month.
I print everything in ABS and I found eSUN ABS the most suitable (a separate discussion). So, I tried to run ABS+ using the same settings. Results were very poor, that is why I continue to discard it every time MatterHackers screw up.
Plate adhesion is extremely poor. I use glue stick for ABS, but the only thing that has a chance with ABS+ is Prevailent T-80. This is a show-stopper for me because I don’t have the time to baby-sit prints. I need to start and move on. I don’t want to lose time on clearing failures either. I do 3 5-hour prints per printer every day. If one of them fails and I find out 20 minutes later, that means only 2 complete in the day.
Warping can be worse than ABS. By can I mean it is worse for parts that I want. Apparently it is worse when walls are thin enough. My parts made in ABS+ require a significant rework with either a coarse file or knife. That’s a lot of wasted time. It may be possible to design around this by adding material.
Strength is poor. The production parts fortunately didn’t suffer, but I made a cardboard cutter in ABS+ that I discussed elsewhere at the forum. These cutters gradually wear out, and the teeth can break easily. However, the part in ABS+ loses teeth so quickly that it’s better to print in ABS. Each print is about 5.5 hours and steals the slots for 2 production parts.
Now the cosmetics of ABS+ are superior. The layers aren’t as visible and the surface has a matte finish, instead of gloss of normal ABS. It is the way to go if you want to pass a printed part for other technology. But this matters very little to me, unfortunately.
What build plate surface does your printer have? And do you have a heated enclosure?
The surface is the stock PEI that came with the Prusa i3 Mk3s+. The enclosure is not heated. It only protects from drafts.