Hi I'm new here and looking for guidance!

Hello everyone,

My name is John and I’ve been looking over this site for the past few weeks and I’m trying to make a decision on attempting a Eustathios build or not. I current own a MP Select Mini V2 and am ready to step up to something larger. I enjoy assembling things and feel this could be a next step for me. The attraction for me is this build seems very flexible and open to modifications.

What I’m hoping to get some guidance on is that I see the BOM is a couple of years old and it appears to be updated with some of the updated parts and modifications. I’m curious after two years is this still a viable BOM and are there new modifications that I should consider that’s not covered by the BOM?

Also, is there anyone in this group or a recommended business that would print the parts for me for a fee?

Thank you and I look forward to feedback and guidance!


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Hello John, the bill of materials would still get you close, but the things that have been upgraded are several of the printable parts which are in the community upgrades folder. Also the firmware and electronics are a bit out of date. Currently I’m using an SKR version 1.3, but an SKR version 1.4 would be a good choice. A standard rep wrap discount full graphics LCD or one of the many touch screens would be a good option. And I’m currently running a BL touch on one of the upgraded carriages. I also recommend using the new side carriages which are a modification of the ones designed by Zane Baird. My printer is currently producing a whole bunch of the face shields and working well. The last thing I would probably do is use the TR8-8 lead screws instead of the more expensive and stiffer misumi lead screws. It allows for faster z movement and is cheaper.

I hope this gives you a starting point, but I would probably use the bill of materials as a rough guide. Figure out all of your major components, and the hardware would be really close but maybe not exact nowadays. That being said trim craft aviation has a wide selection of hardware, and my recommendation would be just by yourself a bunch of the various sizes because the total cost is cheap, and it never hurts having a nice selection of metric hardware laying around.

Feel free to ask questions at any time or hit me up directly. I’m always willing to help and excited anytime I hear someone’s interested in building one of my printers. I’ll help anyway I can.

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As you can see I’m actually using two integrated lead screw stepper motors on z now just to have no belts running underneath the bottom side. It does mean they have the possibility of getting out of alignment, but if they do I just run it down to the bottom and bump off. Then rehome and everything is trammed back. and using the BL touch means I don’t have to worry if things are slightly out of alignment left to right.

Hi Eric! Thank you very much for this information. Would you be able to point me to the new side carriages you are referring to? Would you happen to know a reliable resource that could print these and all the necessary parts for me? I would attempt it on my Select Mini but its on its last legs and not very reliable.

Do you prefer the dual integrated lead screw stepper motors on the Z over using the belts?

Thank you!

I’ll be able to print them in PETG for you once I get through making face shields. I’ve got pretty good profiles dialed in for high-speed PETG now :slight_smile:

I do like the two lead screws with it integrated motors. And Marlin now has the ability to use a BL touch or probe and run those two motors independently to automatically tram the bed. You use one of the stepper motors on extruder2 to port on the board. You need one extra stepper driver (rather than running the two motors in parallel) but it’s a pretty small cost for a nice benefit.

Here’s my latest batch of face shields that I’m getting packaged up for delivery.


2 posts were merged into an existing topic: NIH-recommended Face Shields (3DVerkstan)

Eric, that is very awesome and generous of you to make all of those face shields! And also very generous of you to offer to print all the needed parts for me. I really appreciate it! I’ll definitely cover cost and your time.

As for the dual lead screws with integrated motors, I’ll go that route and update my BOM.

The BL touch is new for me. Are you using two at fixed location to just tram the bed and that is enough to level the bed too?

Mine is running in parallel off one driver, so I am not certain exactly how it works. But I think it does a normal home, then move to a location of your choosing, then fine adjusts one side, then moves to a second location in fine adjusts that side. Mesh leveling G29 is in addition to the tramming.

Hi again. I’m working through the BOM and I’m stuck on the heated bed pad from AliRubber. I’m probably missing something but for the life of me I am unable to find the exact dimensions for the heated bed pad. Do they not regularly stock that size? Is this a custom part?


More here:

More than one option. You can get custom sizes made, but right now shipping from China is impacted by COVID-19. I have a 300x300mm 750W 120V pad on my 330x330mm bed and it turns out aluminum conduct heat pretty well, so actual measured temperature outside the heated area is within a few degrees of the heated area.

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I’m running a 300x300mm pad on the Eustathios and it fits nicely. AliRubber can manufacture to your specification - just add a note to the order what you want. Mine is 350W@24V and I had them put 2 thermistors in there, although I’m using a thermistor embedded into the aluminium bed now.
I think they have a 300x300 pad on their site.


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I’ve never personally had a problem but I know some people have had some issues after several years with the Alirubber heated pads. It is somewhat typical for resistive heating pads to eventually start to break down, but if people continue to have problems I know kenovo is a good alternative.

I always ordered mine custom. And eventually I went with a hole in the center so thermistors could be replaced vs having it potted into the silicone itself. Plus then you can have it make direct contact to the heat spreader vs reading the pad temp.

Thank you Michael. I was trying to following the BOM exactly but it makes sense that it doesn’t have to be exact for this part.

Thank you Oliver. The BOM called for a 120V 500W heat pad so I was looking for something along the lines of that.

Thanks again @Eclsnowman! That is a good idea. How large of a hole are you having added to the pad?

It doesn’t have to be very large, just large enough for a thermistor, 10mm would be reasonable. and with how good of a thermal conductor aluminum is it won’t really matter that there’s no heating directly at the center.