Very simple!! I like it. Think I will do the same. Thanks much Doug!!
Have a great evening.
Russa4920
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By 5/16" do you mean that spiral wrap? It doesn’t look like that goes clear through the chain, just an inch into it. I’d probably cut it a little short so it stops outside the chain then add a hose alongside the wire in the existing chain. You don’t need a very large diameter.
Good idea Mark and your correct. Actually looking at two options now :
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I can fit a 4mm OD flexible poly line into the existing drag chain but would be a little more pressure drop and then less flow. My injection nozzle allows for flow adjustment but this less flow to the nozzle may limit my ability to control flow . The nozzle manufacturer says it’s made for adjustable flow specifically to improve engraving which is what I do mostly.
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Run 6 mm flexible poly line in my additional drag chain shown in photo . This would give me more flow because it’s slightly less pressure drop, realizing that it may only be ounces more .
Your say you don’t need much flow so maybe option #1 may work and each much cleaner , less use of cabinet space I may run both and then test each during my next engrave run. If option #2 works better, I may option to replace the existing drag chain with a slightly wider size which allows the 6 mm tubing run. This would require me to disconnect the red guidance line from control board and rerun in new drag chain along with 6 mm tubing. I eventually plan to replace my control motherboard with a Lightburn capable one so I would do this at same time.
Overall it’s nice to be able to consider all available modifications on the K40. Thanks for feedback!
Russa4920
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The arrangement I’ve put in my monocle laser cutter that I haven’t yet finished or fired up (sigh) is like @dougl’s and I used silicone tube in the drag chain, and then I just stretched the end of it over a piece of vinyl tube right at the laser head. Because my lens can move up and down a few inches (Cloudray C head), I spiraled the vinyl around the laser head so that it stays out of the way through the full range of travel.
Ignore the drag chain location in this picture; I hadn’t worked out yet how to route it when I took the picture. But this shows what I did at the laser head, both fully extended:
and fully retracted:
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Thanks Michael. Helps me understand tubing material options. I ended up running vinyl combined with blue poly tube( more Ridgid) but ordered some 6 mm silicone tubing that I plan to use in future changes.
I really like making K40 modifications and in the process of planning my upgrades , I ran into some laser build kits and thought this may be my future goal after I gain experience with my K40. Can you turn me into some forum links that show me laser build options?
Thank you
Russa4920
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I don’t use a drag chain for the air assist. I actually don’t have a drag chain on the X axes…
This tubing is super flexible. The air line is held to the Y gantry up to it’s center and the tube just flexes as the machine runs…
It’s been this way for quite a while … no issues…
What I’m suggesting is to run the air line external of the drag chain and let the hose follow the head along, similar to mine…
Here is a video link, you can see how it operates on my machine…
Good luck
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Got it now. Thanks for the suggestion. I may end up here.
Russa4920
I think you’re already here… 
Let us know what you worked out.
Good luck
Missed your video link the first time I viewed your email Jack. Looks like most folks are using laser heads that combine the air injection nozzle rather than separate lines like mine . Am I correct here and why is this possibly better? In addition to air line routing options, I’m considering changing out my laser head to one that includes an air nozzle .
Thanks for all feedback folks!
Russa4920
Air assist through the nozzle helps keep the lens clean, blows the char away from the laser path no matter which way the head is moving, and makes the cut edges more even.
https://makerfreedom.com/air-assist-for-beginners-laser-cutting/
Thoughts on the best method to inject air ? Combined laser head /air assist nozzle or separate nozzle? The attached article recommends a separate nozzle like I currently have but I’ve also read articles that say the opposite, recommending a combined nozzle as long as you have a strong enough air compressor ie 800 L/min or better?
Would appreciate your feedback as I see most who have commented to my original post on air line routing have the laser head with air line nozzle combined.
Thanks for your time
Russa4920
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Thanks Michael! Thought this was the case and like I said read some recent articles that stated this. The separate nozzle I have is nice in that it allows me to change the air path but not sure of the real value added here and like you said it doesn’t protect the lens.
Russa4920
I can’t see yours exactly, but it looks like it just blows across the surface.
The main reason for air assist is lens protection. The other is for cutting.
One for cutting (longer lenses, longer nozzle), one for engraving (shorter lenses, shorter nozzle). First photo on left, the drag chain is still on the machine.
Good luck
Interesting article. Coaxial laminar flow nozzle makes sense to me, not sure they sell a unit compatible with the K4o and I don’t have a 3d printer. Looking at purchasing one from Lightobject that is compatible with my K40.
Thanks for information!
Russa4920
Thanks Jack. Did you purchase these or fabricate on a 3d printer. Looking at one on Lightobject that is K40 compatible but has some lens issues so looking at other options. The short verses long lens depending on engrave or cut was helpful. Thanks for sharing .
Russa4920
This is generally only true when the cone is rather close to the work piece AND the outlet hole is not too large. I’ve seen way too many of those cones on things like K40’s which were over 25.4mm away from the work piece and the hole at the end was over 3mm wide.
This was why I made up the dual cone and tube air assist setup I still use on my K40 today. Just a little air flows into the cone to keep smoke out and most of the air is flowing out the little hole a the end of the tube which is much closer to the work piece. I’ve mentioned this to many laser enthusiasts and go shrugs until I showed them a video of cutting capabilities with proper air assist and little to no air assist. Then I saw Russ Sadler’s setup and it was the first time I saw a cone lens holder used properly.
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Thanks Doug. If you don’t have a 3d printer, where can you purchase this dual cone nozzle?
Thanks
Russa4920
There are lots of 3D print service companies around which would print this for you and ship it for a reasonable price. Shapeways is an old one I recall of the top of my head. You might also consider this ReMix since I did have someone complain that they broke a lens when they tried to force the version I made onto their lens holder even though I mention removing any brim or material for a snug but firm fit. This one not only adds a clamping mechanism it also adds a barb for the air tube.
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These are C series tubes from Cloud Ray and others. The head is one of the designs from Sadler and the tubes and nozzles are available.
This is a good video on how to upgrade…
Good luck
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