@Bradley_Blodgett uggh…
The only thing that looks a bit weird to me is that terminal 6 should connect to terminal 5 through the Laser Switch and there is a .015v difference. Perhaps the switch has a bit of resistance which is ok. Just verify that terminal 5 and terminal are connected to either side of the Laser Switch respectively.
This is looking like a bad LPS :). I expected it to be OK since the 24V and 5V are OK but the supply also has an internal 12V that runs the output section that could have been damaged with the shorted 24VDC.
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There is one more thing we can try to make sure we haven’t missed anything. This will entail removing some of the LPS wires but you will have to do that anyway if the supply is bad. This test eliminates any bad switches, weird wiring etc.
WITH THE POWER OFF :)…
On the LPS middle connector:
21.) Disconnect terminal 4-6.
22.) Short out terminal 5-6 by inserting a shorting wire in the screw terminals. Caution: this will make the laser HOT but not on when it comes up.
23.) Check with a DVM (on ohms) if terminal 4 on the middle connector is connected to terminal 1 on the rightmost connector?
24.) TURN ON POWER verify the LPS led is lit
25.) Connect terminal 4 on the middle connector to ground (terminal 3) and see if the laser fires.
If this does NOT fire the laser I expect the LPS is bad and we can talk about next steps.
OK, I did the steps 21-23 I read .1 OHMS with my DVM set at 200.
Shorted out 5-6 and connected to try and fire laser (terminal 4-3)with no result. I have this other power supply, which is the original LPS now that I look at it. I assume that we would run the same battery of tests to verify its operation?
@Bradley_Blodgett excellent I did not realize you have two of them.
Attached it a test procedure. Decided to document to make it easier than reading text :).
Essentially your are doing the last test again on the other supply. Why do you have two of these?
@donkjr basically when the stock setup quit working I got an LPS and a laser tube. Having these on hand is still less expensive than a higher-end laser unit. I’ll be working through this today to see where I get. Thanks for the help!
@donkjr so is it possible that I have 2 bad LPS, or should I swap my tube? Also, I traced my ground wire from the end of my tube and it terminates at the volt meter on my front control panel. Would that impact the ground of the tube, or am I misunderstanding what that connection does?
@Bradley_Blodgett Are you saying the other supply flunked the test??
The wire (green) should as you suggest come from the cathode (like the picture) to one side (+) of the meter and the other side of the meter is wired to l- on P3.
Are either of these supplies new i.e. never been connected?
Did they both have the 24VDC grounded?
Perhaps the tube is bad but freaky that it would do nothing?
@donkjr , what are the odds that I have two bad tubes and/or two bad LPS? I finally got a spare minute so I changed tubes to the original one that came with the unit, with the same results as before. Green light on the LPS, no result pushing the test button. I can’t really believe that all of these components are bad. I register nothing on the meter on the front panel for any sort of output. Is it time to send it to the scrap heap? I could have bought another unit almost at this point trying to repair the original.
@Bradley_Blodgett I certainly get your frustration. The problem is likely your PS(s) but I am shocked (pun?) that you have two bad supplies.
Although I do not know what shorting the 24VDC will do to the supply internally. The fact that they still read 24VDC and 5V leads me to believe that they are OK.
I guess we need to verify somehow that the supplies really are bad?
Reading the thread above did you run the tests on the second supply?
Bottom line is that neither supply will fire the laser with power applied to the LPS and pushing the test button on the LPS, right?
and we can talk about next steps.
