What is the consensus on using AquaNet hairspray for printing on for ABS? What hairspray are you using and what is your heated bed temperature?
As a point of reference, I printed black ABS @ 240C with my HBP @ 110C using AquaNet hairspray. I had one corner delaminate a bit during the hour-long print. I’m thinking my HBP is too hot and I need to drop it down to 100C or less.
Yeah I have used the ABS dissolved in acetone with much success. The glass HBP just looks nasty though with black goo smeared all over it when printing black ABS. 
My main reason for looking at hairspray is that I want to be able to pull the part off the HBP and have no part cleanup to deal with afterwards.
I use hairspray on glass, no tape. Once the bed cools, the pieces brush off - but when the bed is hot, they are quite firmly adhered.
I print ABS at 135 C first layer, 130C for the rest. Extruder temp of 230C.
I have found that sanding kapton with 120 grit on an 80C bed works well. While the bed is still hot it’s actually an effort to get a knife edge under the print to get it to lift. I extrude at about 235C.
We are getting excellent results with bare brushed stainless, no Kapton, no other stuff.
We bond it to the heater. Works like a charm.
I use PET tape. No sanding, no goo, just Acetone it once when i put the tape on, then maybe a few weeks later if parts are starting to peel before the print finishes. Or if the bed ever gets touched by human hands. Finger oils have to be cleaned off. have set the bed heater at 130, but it never gets there because the RAMPS 1.3 or power supply can’t source enough current. And it’s an older heater board. the 1/4" thick borosillicate glass bed needs as much heat as it can get below in order to be hot on top.
I print black abs from +Ultimachine @230. Print directly on glass. Start at 100 for the first layer and then 90 for the rest. I really think your ambient temperature influences your ability to adhere and what temp your bed should be. @Shane_Graber , on another note, do you know if/when your new i3 frame design will be for sale from seemecnc?
@Ross_Hendrickson : which i3 frame are you referring to exactly? There’s two. One is currently in the Prusa3 single_plate repository. The other is on my flickr photostream only. 
The flickr photostream one 
I think I’m going to build a prusa i3 next and wanted to get the parts cut somewhere, someone shared your flickr image and told me I could get it at seemecnc. That didn’t appear to be the case as it looks like an older revision is what they are selling.
The revision that SeeMeCNC is selling is the stock Prusa3 single_plate aluminum frame re-designed (by me) to be laser cut out of 6mm melamine-laminated wood. That’s what my existing i3 is made from (and I have some early photos of it on my photostream).
The latest one on my photostream (the black one) is that frame completely re-designed so that there are no printed parts on it – only laser cut. I have everything re-designed for laser cutting with the exception of the x-idler and x-motor and those are proving problematic to make completely laser-cuttable. I have an idea that might work and I’m testing it down at SeeMeCNC this weekend. If all goes well I hope to have it up on Git within the next week or two.
So far I have put together two frames and including de-masking the parts, I can have the complete frame dry-fitted together in under an hour. Screws take another 30 minutes.
Yes, more than likely. That said, I may rename the printer given how significant of a deviation it is from the Prusa3, which it is based upon. Naming ideas welcome!
Well, either way, excited to see this come out. Graber i1 sounds good
Ok here’s where it will go live: https://github.com/sgraber/Graber
The only thing that still needs work is the x-axis, specifically the x-idler and x-motor. If anyone has suggestions for making those parts flat and laser-cuttable, I’m all ears! Should I release everything but the x-motor and x-idler? I feel like I’d be releasing an incomplete product if I do as the whole goal is to make this thing 100% laser cuttable.
Yes and I’m not overly thrilled with the way they setup their x-axis in general. 
The i3 design uses the M8 smooth rods not only for linear motion but also for lateral support when tensioning the x-belt. The Printrbot LC places the belt almost an inch behind the smooth rods, which causes bowing problems when tensioning the belt over the long term. A friend of mine has the Printrbot LC and had to reinforce the x-axis with an aluminum angle bracket to stop the bowing. I’ve got some ideas based on how the y-carriage attaches the LM8UU’s.