We're building a workbee 1510 cnc machine.

(Sue Koran) #1

We’re building a workbee 1510 cnc machine. It’s time to start on the wiring, but we have many questions. Are there any videos or tutorials anyone has come across that might help us?

Thanks for the help fellow cnc’ers!

Originally shared by Nick Tuttle

It’s alive! I’ve got my blackToe CNC machine motors wired and talking to LinuxCNC.

I laser cut a pen holder to get some tangible results. I still need to get the spindle wired and setup, get the whole thing mounted to a bench and running on 220v, do some cable management, and learn how to generate my own g code, so there’s still a lot to do before I can make full use of the machine. But a little bit of progress feels good!

I’m resisting the temptation to come up with a mount for my dremel. Maybe I should work on some other projects…LOL

(Mike Thornbury) #2

They are all pretty much the same. You need wiring for your steppers, for your endstops and for your spindle.

The work bee is nothing much different from any gantry-based x-y-z axis cnc.

Any tutorial on a diy cnc wiring will do.

I’m doing that exact job today and tomorrow.

Things I’ve learned: make the wiring flexible - don’t tie it tightly or it will break. Use copper multicore, not solid core - it will break. AWG18-20 is adequate for steppers. Protect cable joins with solder and heat shrink. Use polypropylene mesh flexible tube cable protector over your cable runs to prevent chafing/shorts. If you have a energy chain, use it. If you haven’t, buy a metre or so and use it. Avoid running power and signal (endstops, steppers) alongside each other tied with cable ties. If you need to run co-linearly, braid or twist your signal cables to prevent cross-talk. Wire it up ‘outside the box’ first to make sure it all works, before your final cable laying.

(Mike Thornbury) #3

@Sue_Koran if you give us more info - type of controller, psu, endstops, etc. I’m sure we can be more helpful.

Did you buy your Workbee from Openbuilds as a complete kit? If it’s belt-fed, rather than screw you will find ‘double-belting’ makes a huge difference to reliability and ease of setup (double-belting is where you glue a length of Gates belt face-up in your aluminium channel to act as a rack-and-pinion system - you can get away with much less tension and you don’t suffer from ‘belt-bounce’).

Setting your endstop switches to NC (normally-closed) is much safer and more reliable than NO (normally-open).

Decide how you want to work with regards to 0,0 position. On my laser cutter I like my 0,0 to be top-left, but on my CNC I prefer it to be bottom-left. On the laser I have arranged that the usual X-axis is Y, and Y is X, as I do more engraving than cutting and having the lighter axis moving more in raster mode is better than having the whole x &y moving continually.

Power up your controller and download the GRBL settings and become familiar with them. Initially only change the stops, the axes and the stepping as the rest of the settings will not mean much until you are cutting.

Get a digital caliper to use for calibration - it makes the job a real doddle: you tape the caliper open to its fullest extent, jog the axis up until it’s touching, zero the caliper then move a known amount (say, 20-50mm) and read off how far you actually moved. Repeat this while refining the stepper settings and you will get it super-accurate.

Work in mm, not imperial units. Most controllers convert internally from inch to mm and you always lose some accuracy as the counters drop least-significant digits going both ways and especially with arc commands, can result in out-of-round circles and curves.

Learn GCode. At least, learn the basic move and homing commands.

Save your settings to a file!

(Sue Koran) #4

@Mike_Thornbury Thanks for the help. I will be in touch if he hits a snag. He found a video last night that might help, but if not I’ll be back for your advice. Thanks for your willingness to help.

(Sue Koran) #5

@mike thornbury.

We have it up and running, and am using grblpanel for the gcode. Running into a few glitches and am trying to figure it out. We also tried Open Builds gcode sender as well. There seems to be a slight difference in the products when using each of them.

(Sue Koran) #6


(Mike Thornbury) #7

@Sue_Koran we still don’t know what you have, or how it’s configured, so it’s difficult to try and diagnose. But, you could try using CNCweb (https://cncpro.yurl.ch ) which creates the Goode and sends to the machine in one. I use if for my laser engraver and it’s great