Struggling to get PWM correct on my Smoothieware setup. Laser fires, but does not vary based on power. I thought it was LaserWeb gcode, but that is not the case. I can see the correct S Values in the G-Code and when I manually send G-Code to the machine, the power does not vary. It is always whatever the Maximum setting is on the POT. Maybe I simply have block on how it should behave, but I don’t think so.
I noticed someone else posted with a PWM Freq setting of 400. I am using the value of 20 that seems to be common and recommended.
+Peter van der Walt Thanks. I may be a little confused on this. It is wired to from pin 2.5 to L, but not “inverted” that unless done accidentally in ignorance.
I did linger there, but I don’t like to post there since I didn’t end up buying Ray’s board. Tried to, but I’m impatient I’ll see what I can find out. Thanks for the info. Don’t believe I ever had the need to invert a variable output from any Processor/Controller.
I couldn’t resist trying so I ran to the basement to test. I have a MKS Sbase v1.3 board that I had purchased for a future 3D Printer build. Hell, I didn’t even know it was a Smootheiware compatible controller until I fried the Smoothieboard and started looking through my past and future project storage when I couldn’t get another board quickly.
When I inverted the output, it fired the laser as soon as I rebooted the controller. I changed it back to the way it was and it worked as before. It turns out that I have it wired to PIN 2.4, but on the (-) post of that jumper. It was firing the laser, but just not with PWM. I left it that way and then changed the PWM frequency to 400, rebooted and tested with the LCD Panel Menu and its definitely working now.
+Peter van der Walt Sorry, but remember, it was a smoothie config question, not a wiring one. So I didn’t think pics were required. Also, I didn’t want anyone to have to support this Chinese controller
It is wired the sane way it has been since I first installed the controller. Going to the (-) of pin 2.4 output. It’s always possible there’s something strange with controller.
As I said, it seems to be working correctly with the Freq Change. I’m about to perform all kinds of Laseweb tests.
It’s absolutly correct to use the minus pin of 2.5 or 2.4 connector, because those are the pins connected to the mosfet. The plus pins are directly connected to the power source input. This way, no inversion is needed, because the mosfet pulls to ground when output is on.
You can play a bit with the PWM period. On my K40, 400ms works good for grayscale images, but 50ms works better for depth map cutting (deeper with less burning).
@donkjr I thought I had read everything on your site, but may have missed the first link. Thanks for detailed info. Couldn’t have gotten this far without you sharing that.
@donkjr Your documentation is very usefull, thank you for writing it down!
You could probably write explicitly, that the L Pin has to be connected to the minus Pin of the P2.4 or 2.5 Output, so users of smoothie compatible boards also can find the right pin.
@cprezzi your right, that labeling was initially confusing to me before I read the schematics. They are sometimes also labeled VBB and grnd which makes it more confusing. I added new pictures and notes to the post. Thanks for pointing it out.
I’ll see what I can find out. Thanks for the info. Don’t believe I ever had the need to invert a variable output from any Processor/Controller.