So I gave it a try this morning @ 10 Ma and 10 MMs it still will not cut through hobby ply i have not tried a faster speed i did try 15 MMs but same condition am i chasing my tail here I would happly change out what ever would solve the problem but i don’t know what that is
Yeah, as Scott mentions, focal length can be a big factor. Mine was out by 4mm at one point & it made a huge difference. Couldn’t cut through anything, even with max power, slow speed (like 3mm/s) & 10+ passes. Once I realised my focal point was out & fixed it, went back to normal.
Focal length is one of the reasons you need to measure cut width on the top part of the cut -------------IF WIDER THAN 1MM YOU HAVE A PROBLEM-----------------ps the focal length on a stock 12mm lens is 50mm ,and the stock lens failed on my machine after 100 hours.can you start a new post and add photos of something you have cut ,add a ruler across the cut for size refrence ,photos of top and botton -also add air assist pressure if known,speed of cut and ma settings
Phillip i jsut got back in and saw your reply i gave things a rest for today but i just measured the top of the cut it is 0.81 MM so it’s under the 1MM i do have air assist its the harbor freight aiir brush compressor with a 3d printed nozzle i made it’s right at were the beam cuts i did measure the focal length and it’s at 50.8 MM to the top of the material so what you think it may be the focal lens is junk if so what would you recomend thanks for the help
@Dennis_Fuente Quick suggestion is to take out the focal lens altogether, just for a test & see if you are still getting the split beam. You will end up with a much larger radius burn spot (something around 5mm) but should be able to tell if the beam is split.
@Phillip_Conroy is it okay to use ‘screw terminal’ to attach the high voltage wire to the exposed laser tube terminal?
I know this is old discussion but the connection was mentioned here and I dont like the idea about just wrapping the wire around the terminal as well… contacts on my tube are all black, which is either oxide or just a result of poor connection over time
This is content imported from Google+ and @Phillip_Conroy has not been active on MakerForums up to this time, and thus will not be informed of you bringing this thread back.
Thanks for letting me know!
Otherwise, part of the answer I found here:
Someone suggested that screw might come loose after a while since it is monolithic cable which it presses on, otherwise seems like some tubes come already with direct screw terminal, where u simply fix the wire in place by turning the screw.
Like here (video skipped to the right time, for convenience)
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