Progress of my smaller Eustathios. Thanks @Eclsnowman for the Eustathios-spider files and @Richard_Horne for the Sli3DR Z axis.
Just realize my spectra line routing is wrong, so need to fix that. Still need to change the 6900 bearing holder & geared Z motor mount, and decide on the extruder.
step file is in here:
zip version:
Would like some feedback on anything I should watch out.
Thanks. Last time I checked, it mixed metric/imperial parts, and it’s difficult to get imperial parts here. I want 200x200x350 build volume, it seems easier to shrink the Eustathios than expand the Tantillus.
Tantillus? It was awful from a build perspective - I’m with you @hon_po - the mix of metric and imperial meant it was up for a complete redesign. And the parts he did use were a bit… esoteric. Rather than using standard (and thus, easy to obtain) parts, it looked like he designed it with what he had in his shed.
Nice work @hon_po - I’m keen to see how your z-axis mechanism works. I’ve realised getting 2GT belts in the right close-loop length is going to add quite a bit to the base cost - $2-3 each - plus finding a 5mm shaft to mount the pulleys on means that I am looking for a different z-axis for the PlySli3DR.
And… speaking of extruders, do you have a preferred design? I was hoping to have it mounted inside the chassis, but I think that idea is fast disappearing. To do so would mean I need to find something very petite.
@Mike_Thornbury there’s no perfect design, and you cannot please everyone. So I’m OK with designing with things on hand. By releasing whatever design and let it evolve has been a great thing of the community.
cost wise, sli3dr is better, but ingentis is more proven at the moment. Don’t find my preferred extruder yet.
Instead of using t-nuts, you drill a hole through the side in the channel of the extrusion and straight into the end of the extrusion. It works well and grips like a schoolboy You do need to make accurate cuts, though, as the only thing keeping your assembly square is the face of the cut. I dialled in my drop saw a few weeks ago and after about 18 different cuts, my right angles measured between 89.99 and 90.01 degrees, using nothing but self-tapping bolts.
Nice job. One thing I will warn about is when you build remember all the tnuts. Eustathios is a nightmare to get one in that was forgotten part way through the build.
I also agree with @D_Rob . Assembly with the tapped ends method is stronger. I did both on mine because I overbuild everything. But I feel the threaded ends method made things more ridged that the brackets did.