Awesome 
When you get the time to achieve those improvements:
Iāve been using MeerK40t for a few months now and it has some kinks that need to be ironed out, but is quite a useful software. Specially the feature of controlling power (or DPI) as some materials donāt like continuous power when cutting/engraving and lowering the firing rate achieves the same result while depositing less heat on the material.
Have fun 
Note: Donāt use TL-Smoothers for M3 Nano, because the Trinamic drivers donāt need them and they might hurt. They are meant to work around a design flaw in a few older stepper drivers like the A4988.
Also note that in many K40s the stepper wiring doesnāt match the smoothers and so requires making custom cables.
Edit: Only the the M3 Nano Plus has trinamic drivers: M3 nano status with MeerK40t? - #25 by Tatarize
@prototipo:
what do you mean with: āremove the level on the switchesā?
typo for lever?
Multiple people have found in testing that microswitches are slightly more repeatable from one actuation to another without the lever. Of course something has to be aligned to press the button under the lever on your particular K40 (they are not all alike).
Some microswitches are more precisely repeatable than others:
Some folks here have chosen to modify their K40s to use optical rather than mechanical endstop switches. But just like TL-Smoothers this involves rewiring ā and if you arenāt comfortable with electronics work, you might not want to do either. (And if you are considering TL-Smoothers for smoother movement, compare the cost to instead moving to an M3 nano plus board which uses trinamic stepper drivers that are far better; more or less all 3d printers sold today have moved to them.)
Yes, the lever. Apologies for the confusion.
In my case, going for a second pass or doing different cuts on the same material had a repeatability variance of about ~0.5mm. It was a PITA for the production of some keychain designs I was running for a client and my last resort was to test that theory. I removed it (the lever) and used CA glue to hold an old piece of 3D print that fit right in place where it would hit the switch. No more random positioning. I did the same for the X carriage later on.
Edit: forgot to mention, that didnāt seem to be an issue with other micro switches Iāve had on 3D printers, maybe is the position at which the lever gets pushed, but I did notice that the lever was kinda weak or flimsy in contrast to how rigid the other switches were. Maybe thereās a quality problem there.
OK, thanks for all the explanations. Thatās all really helpfull, it seems Iām learning a lot here. I ike the idea of the M3-Board, though. At the moment there is no need for it, but I will keep it in mind.
