Looking for a core xy, with a 300300300 vol, for around $400 CAD. Any ideas?
I don’t think you will manage a price that low without going diy.
That’s what I was thinking. Ideas?
@Rudy_Van_Parys any opinion about it? I’ve been hearing good and bad, depending on who you listen to.
The Vulcanus MAX 30 is 320 x 320 x 320 mm but ~$800
D-Bot is 300 x 200 x 325 mm but it’s modular so you could make your own custom size a ~$550
Sorry but for $400 you can’t even make the HyperCube which is only 200 x 200 x 155 mm.
@Adam_Steinmark I’ve been looking into the Vulcanus, but this is the first I’ve seen of price. Thanks. Too bad, it’s a nice one.
@Gaetano_C.J_Iacono he updated it with the another user’s BOM. Just search “bom” on the Instructables page
I’d be wary about Chinese printers like the Tronxy, you tend to get what you pay far. Some of the Tevo’s have even been known to be fire prone.
It’s pretty good, a significant improvement on the original design. My favorite design has to be: https://imgur.com/a/sPLMj#6O9Pfo4
Such simplicity and attention to detail.
Yeah but it’s scale-able. I just love how rigid the construction is, this thing could run for months without needing much maintenance.
Damn! I wish I had a work shop!
OK, one more question, since you seem to know so much. Can you build the bed size with any size you want and the software figures out it’s limitations by the placement of the optical/mechanical stops, or is it programmed into the software?
Well unless you have an endstop at the min and max of each axis of the printer there’s really no way to calculate this. Let’s say you use 1 endstop per axis like most 3D printers (1 limit switch for x, 1 for y, and a probe for z) and all are set to home to the 0 position (front left corner of build plate); if you try just to detect X max and you know it’s somewhere between 200 and 250 mm, you tell the software to move the head 250 mm and say it’s actually 230, the X motor will just skip steps for the last 20 mm and the controller will be none the wiser (unless you have skip sensing with closed loop control) because there’s no endstop to detect when the printer has reached the max value.
In order to do this you need a max and min endstop for X, Y, and Z which I believe is just overkill because you’ll do nothing with half the endstops besides figure out the build volume. You’ll also need an expansion board to detect all those endstops because most control boards don’t give you that many ports.
Another way would be to build the printer with skip correction using closed loop drivers which use an amp to loop back current for positional detection. Essentially the drivers monitor the current from the motor and if they detect an error caused by the motor skipping it feeds this information back to correct for the skipped steps. So you could use just 3 endstops and have it calculate max dimension for when the driver detects skipping.
I’d recommend if you’re building the printer yourself, make a mockup in a CAD program so you test for how it will be put together and how much travel you have in each axis.
You then specify the max dimensions for each axis in the firmware and software, but these values are easy to change if you ever need to adjust them.
OK. Luckily, I’m an expert CAD designer. When I get there, this should be a great help. Thanks so much. I hope you don’t mind if I give you a tap again, if I have more questions, during my build? No, is an acceptable answer. Of course, if you or your friends, need a hand with any CAD work, you know how to find me.
Feel free to hit me up with any question through hangouts if you want. I’m working on my own printer, it’s IDEX not CoreXY but they’re similar enough and I’m familiar with the CoreXY kinematics. I’m pretty good at CAD myself 