Here we go! THIS is  It's my attempt at a 3.0 printer (being the

(Mike Miller) #1

Here we go! THIS is #Ingentilire It’s my attempt at a 3.0 printer (being the third one I’ve built) and it’s got lots of little details that don’t come through. Case in point: The frame is held together using button head screws, as are the bearing supports. Why? Because they’re clean, can be installed blind, are cheaply available, and rely on the cuts of the extrusions to provide perpendicularity. Order them cut to length and tapped from Misumi and it helps an end user without heavy tooling build a rigid and square printer.

It reuses a lot of identical printed parts. Why? Because once you get one part dialed in (e.g. bearing supports), you make 7 more just like it. Why are X and Y axes seperate? Because they let you play with any size carriage you want, plus it’s easier to set a datum in one corner, get the carriage moving smoothly, then set the bed equidistant from the carriage.

Like I said…lots of thought for lots of reasons. Looks like it turned out okay. (Github location to come shortly)

(Matt Olsen) #2

Pimp bro! Are those brass bushings I see? Does the rotating axis rail creating any complications? Lots of unique applications and implementations. I really like the amount of printed parts, it gets me pumped to build my own lil bot baby.

(Mike Miller) #3

Oil impregnated bronze…just about the cheapest linear solution they make for clean environments. (Yes, there’s plastic with IGUS, and it’s lower maintenance, but has it’s own drawbacks.) The rolling axis actually improves things as you’re less likely to have to start moving on a rod that isn’t also twisting, greatly reducing static friction.

(René Jurack) #4

Be aware, that magnets will loose their power, if exposed to heat (don’t know if you are using a heated bed)

(Mike Miller) #5

Not on this printer. Since is was for my son, I figured I’d stick with PLA, if he wants to experiment with other materials, he can use the other printer in my office.

(Mike Miller) #6

Interestingly, the temps required to permanently damage magnets are also the temps we typically see (80c to 100c). I suspect this design really doesn’t NEED to me magnetized…it uses screws, and aluminum discs with holes the diameter of the screws for positive XY location, since it’s unlikely your printer would pick UP on the bed, that’d probably be adequate, still…the grab of the magnets is kinda cool.

(James Kao) #7

There are magnets that are designed to operate in higher temperature environments that should be able to to withstand heated bed temps up to 150C:

I was thinking of modding my printer to use magnets to hold down a thin sheet of spring steel, but never got around to it.

(Mike Miller) #8

Problem with thin is vibration, you want some kind of rigidity to your build plate…this printer uses a (Bakelite?) substrate that by itself isn’t rigid enough to provide a flat surface, but is clipped to plate glass to provide the final surface. mic6 aluminum is ideal, but a little out of budget for this build. Magnets plus mic6 plus spring steel plus heat bed might be pushing weight limits if you’re not using leadscrews to support the bed. (IGentUS uses gt2 belts, they’re at their limit.)

(James Kao) #9

Yeah, I was thinking to use steel to provide strength and act as a heat spreader and then bond something like PEI to it, something that would be rigid enough while printing ,but could survive flexing for part removal.