Anyone have experience with it? Opinions? (I’m not quite sure why I’m asking, I’m pretty happy with the non-precision diamond plate #IGentUS is currently using…perhaps I just can’t keep well enough alone.)
McMaster is pretty restrictive in dimensions, my build plate is roughly 13"x13" and they sell 12x12, 12x24, and 24x48 inch plates…meaning they’re too small, or WAY too large.
I’m building a second printer with a 10x8x8 sized build envelope, so having a large sheet of the stuff might not be so bad, if it’s an otherwise good build plate material.
Garolite is recommended for printing nylon but not really for anything else. Adhesion for other materials is usually a matter of experimentation with bed temp, surface treatment and print speed. “Bridge” prints well on glass with 3DLac [something I’ve just found on my filament supplier’s site]. Spanish hair spray I think…
It’s partially looking at the material for the next printer. The current build plate is flat, not “FLAT”. I’m seeing some thermal deviation that’s easy to tune out with a 1/4 turn of the tramming screws, but it interferes with making a printer that’s truly hands-off.
A thick glass plate with some treatment depending on printing material is all I’ve done . I’ve heard some people get a borosilicate glass plate but window glass has worked for me… I have 6 pieces that I swap out between prints as required. I have an acid etched frosted glass but haven’t tried it yet.
I only bother for nylon because it won’t stick to anything else. In the UK it’s branded Tufnol and you can buy it in 300mm square sheets. Don’t get less than 3mm thick as it can warp with large nylon parts attached and you have to clip it to the bed below.
@Mike_Miller I got onto Garolite LE about a year ago. Out of the box it is nice, scuff it with a medium grade sand paper( 100 - 80 grit) and I’ll put it against any other bed. I originally tried it with the Taulman materials, as noted above and suggested by Tom, I soon found out it is what I personally want to print on. I do still use a glue stick and I do not use a heated bed on my printer. I print flexible, PLA, ABS, nylons, and other blends manufacturers send to me… (Some I can’t even identify). The printer kit I will be releasing soon will come with this bed, I believe in it this much.
Scuffed, the bed provides a surface that is slightly porous, you will no longer get that one really shiny surface glass provides. The object your printing will hold if your z is correct. You will need to remove it with a straight edge.
Let’s talk about the real business though, if your bed moves in the horizontal plane there’s not another material at this price point that will provide the strength for the weight. Big acceleration gain over glass.
One more to grow on, want to try it? Send me your uncut piece from McMasterCarr I will throw it on the OX and cut it to size for you. After all, what are G+ friends for?
