First test with 3dBenchy before tuning, I was expecting somthing worse.
Retraction need some work.
There’s still few things to do:
- plasma cut panels
- real spool holder (better than just a ghetto screw)
- check perpendicularity
- flying extruder
- …
Looking great, I love the USB port moved up front.
(looks at this printer and 1st try Benchy boat, then looks at own printer) (cries) 
Looks like one beautiful printer. I can only hope that one day I will be able to achieve that kind of perfection in my wire management.
@Zane_Baird It’s professional deformation It’s really not that hard, just take some time thinking of wire routing. You can do great things using simple cable ties.
Wow, looks great. What did you use as headbed? Still need to decide for my own on the heatbed (sandwich)
Thanks ! Regarding the bed, from the bottom: heatpad 300*300 230v 500w from robotdigg (it dont have the 468mp tape so you should go with the aliexpress one linked in BOM), 6mm alu plate plasma cut and for now a ghetto 300x300 Ikea mirror until I find better. I will probably switch for a boro glass and PEI sheet but I failed to find a correct size glass.
Smoothieboard and Viki2 LCD. Did you connect it in a way that you can use all features of Viki2? I had to deactivate onboard LEDs in order to do that.
@Hakan_Evirgen viki2 need 2 more pins than smoothieboard spares. I didn’t usé the buzzer and used the pin of a spare MOSFET for the second led
@Maxime_Favre when you disable onboard LEDs then you have enough pins available. I am using all MOSFETS as well as all features of Viki2 in that way.
@Maxime_Favre , thnx for clarifying this. Feel not completely confident with a 230V heatpad. What do you use to switch the heatpad on/off. Solid State Switch?
Good to see one more Eustathios, especially one from CH. Didn’t noticed you’re from Switzerland at first sight althoug I was impressed with your wiring–indeed it looks very swiss. I had to make a break with my build but I plan to continue soon–you set the level quite high if I look at your test print.
@Daniel_F Thanks ! We’re are you from ? @Roland_Barenbrug regarding 230VAC heater with the SSR is fine, just don’t use a relay, it will not last long with the PWM. With 230V going further in the printer than just the power supply, I highly recommand to make sure the structure and bed support are correctly grounded in case of failure. On mine I still need to add a ground wire to the bed support.
@Maxime_Favre Bern
@Roland_Barenbrug OMRON G3NA-210B or 220B are good choices, look for genunine ones (can be found used on ebay), they run cool. Ground wire to the build plate and frame is a good idea–you don’t want the phase on the frame in case something goes wrong with the slicone pad