E3D Sock v Bulldog Clip - Bulldog clip wins.

E3D Sock v Bulldog Clip - Bulldog clip wins. Have now killed 2 socks this way. I really need to find a better way to clip the glass bed in place that won’t ruin a Sock… :confused:

Skip the glass completely, use a mk3 bed directly. You can even countersink the mounting screws for a completely flush/flat bed.

Not really helpful, I choose a glass bed as I need the finish that glass gives, needs to be removable for cleaning and the MK3 with it’s Aluminium top doesn’t do that (I have 3 printers with Ally beds btw, which I print directly on to). I also need to work with what I have over changing the whole bed heating system. If I had a MK3 I’d still put glass on top and use the Ally to spread the heat. Tape on the bed isn’t an option, nor glue stick. Glass and Hairspray has always worked for me, yes stuck in my ways, but it’s just worked well on all my printers. Sorry if this sounds harsh, there are reasons behind choices of using the glass over other bed materials.

You can use something swiss clips to hold the glass to the plate…

@Benoit_Miller - Aye, had looked at them, they are the lesser of 2 evils with being low profile…

What about having the glass supported laterally by corners that a re no taller than the glass itself (printed or otherwise) … wouldn’t that work?
Search on thingiverse for “Bed Corners” … something along this: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:188776
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:188776

@Florian_Ford - You may be on to something there…

If the glass is like a slightly bevelled mirror, the bolts can actually pin it down while they are fastened against it. You get the picture.

You might even get some cues from the quick-release clamp of this Voron extruder which you would use to change the glass… http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413699 … I’m done:)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1413699

I recently swapped the BuildTak on my FlexPlate with some PEI. Removable build surface and glass-like finish on the bottom surface.

How thick is the PEI?

0.8mm

http://e3d-online.com/Mechanical/SwissClips
The problem is solved :wink:

http://e3d-online.com/Mechanical/SwissClips

You still need to fix the PEI to the bed somehow, either with 3M 468MP adhesive or… bulldog clips. :slight_smile:

That being said I gave up on the removeable bed idea for my printers, it is very convenient but such a pain dealing with the clips. PEI is close to being a universal print surface and works fine for most plastics, so you rarely need to swap it out except for maintenance.

@Benoit_Miller the FlexPlate is removable. Attaches to any bed with the magnetic base and the removable magnetic plate goes on top of that. My PEI is attached to the magnetic plate with 3M adhesive which was the hardest part.

For reference, here’s how I clamp my PEI coated Glass bed to my 1/4" aluminum build plate–needed the low profile for my fan shroud
Holes were done with a hole transfer punch, then drilled and tapped M3
missing/deleted image from Google+

@Ishaan_Gov Is your glass cracked?

Heh, yep @Adam_Steinmark , being kinda cheap and waiting on fixing it; it works for now

I just set the S3D or cura bed area in the profile to avoid the clips, after running into problems with other methods. I had the glass screwed down very low profile and ran into a screw with the hotend, no damage to the hotend but it broke the glass. I now use bulldog clips for easy glass removal and simply made sure the printable area a G code ever deals with takes them into account. Just reduce the bed size in the slicing software so its not an issue.

or is this a move to a corner home issue with a cartesian or something? that is a problem when they go to 0.1 at a corner and then fly over at full travel speed to the bed center. not sure what to do about that, maybe a start gcode script to avoid doing that? Not sure what it would be without the physical setup to examine.