Chinese Red Laser (K80) small text egraving on glass missing details

Hello everyone,

I bought an 80W Chinese red laser With Ruida 6442.

I am trying to engrave small (1.5mm height) text and it missing details. I have tried various settings the best working is 300 speed, 25% power, and 500 Lines per Inch.

The lens is 18mm FP 50.2mm - maybe buying a new better quality lens would help? Or select the one with a lower FP 38.1mm or even 25.4mm?

Or it’s simply a Chinese-quality laser and I can’t do anything about it?


The bigger engravings look quite nice.

Laser Specifications
  • Technical Parameters for Laser Engraver Cutting Machine
  • Control system:DSP
  • Working size: 28"x20"(700mm x 500mm) with unlimited length design
  • Laser tube type: Co2 Glass sealed laser tube
  • Laser power: 80W
  • Driver type: Micro Stepping Motor
  • Max speed: 1000mm/s
  • Resolution: 1000 DPI
  • Location precision: 0.01mm
  • PC Interface: USB2.0 and USB Disk
  • Software: Auto Laser
  • Image form: HPGL, BMP, GIF, JPG, JPEG, DXF, DST, AI
  • Machine Dimension(L/W/H):1460850950 (mm) / 57.533.537inch
  • Package Dimension(L/W/H):15609501100 (mm) / 613743 inch
  • Package: Standard Wooden case for export
  • N.W.: 180 KG
  • G.W.: 265 KG
  • Technical Parameters for Water Cooler Chiller
  • MODEL: CW-3000AG
  • Voltage: 220V
  • Frequence: 60HZ
  • Current: 0.45A
  • Cooling: 50W/℃
  • Capacity: 9L
  • Max .Lift: 10M
  • Max.Flow: 10L/Min
  • N.W: 9.5kg
  • G.W: 12kg
  • Protection: Flow Alarm
  • Package: Carton Box
  • Way Of Circulation: Water Pump Forces Circulation
  • Dimensions: 470mm270370mm (LWH)
  • Packing Dimensions: 590380470mm (LWH)
  • Inlet And Outlet Hold: Outside Dimensions 10mm Brass Connector
  • Technical Parameters for CNC Rotary Axis
  • Rated Voltage:2.07v Dc
  • Phase Resistance (20℃) 1.38×(1±15%)ω/Phase
  • The Maximum Statictorque:≥780mn.M
  • Swing( Shaft To See ):A-Ab-B-Clockwise Direction
  • Maximum No-Load Running Frequency:≥2500pps
  • Electrical Strength:Ac600v/1ma/1s
  • Rotor Inertia:220g.㎡
  • Step Angle:1.8°±0.09°
  • Rated Current:Dc 1a/Phase
  • Inductance (1khz):30×(1±20%)Mh/Phase
  • Detent Rorque:320g.Cm Ref.
  • Maximum No-Loadstart Frequency:≥1500 Pps
  • Insulation Resistance:≥100mω(Dc 500v)
  • Insulation Grade:B
  • Quality 0.8kg Ref.
  • Material Of Pulley:H62
  • Tooth Form:Mxl
  • Number Of Teeth Z=20
  • Pitch Of Teeth P=2.032
  • Pitch Circle:φ12.936
  • Outer Circle:φ12.428±0.003
  • Product Dimensions: H152 × L4500 ×W178 (Mm)

Would it help to buy lower focal point lenses? 38.1mm or even 25.4mm? or its just laser limitations? Maybe new mirrors would help?

I have no direct knowledge here! But I personally bought a 100W laser because I wanted to cut more than to engrave, and am expecting lower engraving quality as a tradeoff for higher cutting power. I have read that higher power tubes generally have lower resolution because of the greater energy needed to “strike” — @donkjr were you the one who explained this to me?

Unrelated to your question: I didn’t at first see the fold-down for “Laser Specifications” and would like to warn that the CW-3000 is not a chiller and except in a cold climate is a quick way to destroy a laser tube. It’s a travesty that they are ever sold for lasers. From the K40 Intro linked at the top of every page, see Cooling the K40 laser tube which describes this. I know it’s not what you are asking about in this post, but this knowledge might avoid destroying a tube prematurely.

Thanks for your response. I have ordered, lower FP lenses will let you know how much it helped.

CW-3000 yea… it sucks. I have disassembled it and to out the radiator and put it in a separate 50L water tank. So in CW-3000/laser system flowing distilled water and around the radiator cold water from the “vell”, if outside +30C it might need a few water changes, its sucks but at this moment don’t want to spend 600$ real chiller.

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What you are getting is the result of excessive speed - notice your verticals in the last 2 lines are fainter/missing because the laser does not have time to “ramp up” the power at that speed - try slowing down to +/- 100mms and see if that improves it. A shorter focal length will likely help as well but I would suggest checking your speed will be as effective. Just FWIW. Cheers

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