Hey all, trying to login and create a workspace that I can tweak.
I keep getting CORS errors and cannot figure this out. Tried the cloud9 approach also, but seems to have changed for AWS. Even if that worked, couldn’t use it as I can’t login.
Anyone have any inside, please let me know.
Enough stuff has changed on the backend with Google Cloud Platform and App Engine that the login hasn’t been working for a while, so you can’t make new workspaces. Sorry.
Ah, John. I do have to say this stuff is amazing. Wanted to get back into this for 13+ years, and love it. Watching all your videos and all the stuff around this software. Very nice work.
So given the current state, is there any way I can modify it to run locally? I want to tweak it to at least start with all my default settings.
I have so far, cloned the grl1.1 workspace in github, modified it for my github on all URLs. I am running it on my raspberry pi, but when I hit the site, it redirects to the default space.
If I could just tweak this and allow me to change settings, would be perfect for my situation. If you can help, I really appreciate it.
Again, Great work John!!
I had also saw some quirks I was wanting to see if I could fix.
I’ve been writing software for 20+ years now, and would love to help out if I can.
Well, the entire site is open source and everything is on Github, but you can see that there is a main project that subloads all of the other projects. So, you’d just have to pull down the main project locall to the Pi and then if you can dish it up via a webserver, you should be able to get it to load all of the other projects on-the-fly directly from Github.
Yeah, thats what I was doing. I was digging in when I got your response, but it seems like it tries to see which workspace is logged in and load it from the web via the URL. I figured I could hijack that a bit, and override it.
I will try that out.
Appreciate the help.
Been wanting to make PCBs for years now, glad to finally get back into it. Auto Leveling is a MUST! Using the EAGLE boards is a very nice touch.
In my last 5 PCB’s I’ve made, I got too lazy to do the autolevelling and I found that I would just keep re-running the same job over and over but moving down 0.1mm on the Z by resetting the Z zero position on each run until I had all traces isolated. I would end up with some deep cuts on part of the board. I try to use a 0.4mm flat endmill to do the isolation, which means I can’t do very detailed boards this way.
BTW, the login really isn’t needed if you go local. The login really was just used to store data for the user on the ChiliPeppr app engine instance. If you’re local, just modify the source code of the Javascript and you’d achieve the same result.
Gotcha, I have tried some bits 20 degree and 10 degree 0.1mm engraving bits. When the stars align it looks really nice. But if it cuts too deep I lose the traces, and cheap bits aren’t centered right and their ends snap off.
I have a list of operations that get it mostly repeatable. I did break around 10-15 bitrs so far tho, various reasons.
The machine I am trying to mimic is this https://wegstr.com/
I’m thinking of trying their spiral bits.
Yeah, I love the wegstr too and that is definitely what ChiliPeppr tries to achieve. I do think the Eagle BRD widget is still one of the best/easiest tools to use for milling PCBs. I also find that putting solder mask on the board afterwards has solved the problems I would get on shorts because the flux would get in the milled trenches and cause shorts.
Yeah, was looking at getting that stuff. My backup is to use a laser and cut paint off the board then etch it. Just trying to do it without the etchant.
I was looking at doing all the steps they do. solder mask, vias, pad clearing, and tinning.
I even saw this guy using a pick and place. Looked awesome. NOT that I am going to do high volume, but it might be nice to just watch it all come together “on its own”. https://youtu.be/CRSLbo_8nTQ?t=333 these are awesome.
I saw you were getting into Robotics, on a side note. I work a Robotics company, been there for a year now. READY Robotics, pretty neat place. If I can help in anyway, please let me know.
I tried paint and I did laser it off the pads, thus why that extra tab is in the Eagle BRD widget, but it leaves lots of oxides on the copper and is super hard to solder the pads afterwards. You end up scraping them back to raw copper with tweezers. So, I found just painting on the solder mask with a toothpick worked better and just avoid the pads. UV curable mask is what I use.
I’ve seen it done a few ways.
The wegstr people cure the whole surface and use the bits im using for copper and a spring to “just give it enough pressure” to cut the mask only. Looks kind of nice. https://youtu.be/sHO_rCXzI3M?t=372
They use a transparency that blocks where all the pads are during curing. So all the pads are uncured, and you can wash it off. Kind of a neat idea. https://youtu.be/bLP-gzqJ-r4?t=181
The process you mentioned. Sounds like the other 2 are worth a shot for me then.