Any suggestions on getting abs adhesion on an aluminum plate? I just used abs slurry but the slurry peeled off the bed… I have a buildtak I’d rather not use at the moment and kapton tape
I had a similar issue when I was using glass. I added kapton tape, and everything was better. If you’re trying to print anything big or high infill, good luck if you don’t have an enclosure.
I have a printer with glass and just slurry works. Guess kapton is the winner
ABS will stick to heated kapton; I’ve never had success with it sticking to bare heated aluminum. Mixed reviews on fan/no fan – some say it works, some say no way in hell. I know commercial machines have a heated build volume for a good reason though.
just bare glass plate works fine for me- and no tape marks
I use gluestick and it works great! On glass though.
Take a look at Wolfbite http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping I have used this stuff in the past and it works magic. Not sure how well it will do with bare metal
Supposedly Wolfbite is the bees knees. I’ve got a bottle waiting for me to test out.
Wolfbite works too well. My boro glass plates kept chipping off so I stopped using it.
@Evan_Nguyen I had the chipping problem too, but backed off to using the barest amount on initial application. After that, between prints, I just use a few squirts of water spread with the applicator. I’ve gone as much as a dozen prints before applying more Wolfbite. With the amount I use, if I let the bed cool to lower than about 40C, the print just about pops itself off the glass.
@Dave_Kodama I’m going to try and source that oven top glass that Wolf3D uses before I go back to the wolfbite. I do miss that glass finish on my prints.
@Evan_Nguyen I’m using plain window glass from a local glass place-- cut to size and edge finished for only a few dollars. My bed temperature is 115C for ABS.
Do you ever find your window glass “losing it”? After alot of prints it seems like it’s more difficult to get parts to stick, even when cleaning with isopropyl.
If you want to try another route instead of the window glass take a look at what @Richard_Horne uses, he uses mirror glass from ikea cleaned with vinegar and gets great results.
@jeremy_bryson After a lot of prints my glass gets a bit “gunked” up – maybe just dust sticking to the glass and plastic. In that case I scrape off what I can with a razor blade and give the glass a wash off with some liquid hand soap (just what I have in my bathroom). After toweling and drying and adding just a trace of Wolfbite, it’s ready to go like new.
Glass cleaner with vinegar, it’s the perfect stuff for getting that stick back.
Plain or tempered glass is good for most materials. I have used 4mm Ikea mirror-glass tiles for the past few years, I think it distributes heat well and never seems to break. Even 3mm mirror-glass has been working perfect for me on a 400mm x 200mm machine for over 2 years now.
Airwolf Wolfbite is very good for specific materials - PCABS and ABS in particular.
I find the Wolfbite nano is ideal for PLA and TPU when not using a heated bed.
Uncoated borosilicate glass chips very easily with PET/G/T - no real solution to that yet other than more coatings.
PEI sheets are good too - still needs a heated bed for many materials.
For ABS on Aluminium - I would coat it in PET tape and use Wolfbite for ABS.
If you have a heated bed, which I presume you do since you’re printing abs, pei works well. Abs sticks to it super well