Wow... After printing a heat sensitive part in PETG,

Wow… After printing a heat sensitive part in PETG, kind of shows you how shitty ABS is to print with eh?
This part from PETG has no warping what so ever. WooHoo!

As soon as you get past the stringing and get the prints dialed in petg is amazing.

ABS is amazing in a proper heated build chamber. Garbage in a cold environment.

What sources do you recommend for PETG?

I usually just get what ever I see first. has just started a range which is very affordable and prints really well.

@Ryan_Carlyle Not even a “proper” chamber. Many times, draping a garbage bag and using the bed as a heat source is good enough.
Unfortunately I am switching to (1.75mm) PLA because ABS shrinks a tad too much for what I do, and I don’t need high temp resistance. Now I have a stockpile of ABS 3mm that I need to burn through, but my old 3mm printer is clogged! Haha… sigh

@Francis_Lee ABS is a tolerable material if you just enclose the chamber to get warping down, but it’s still kind of weak because of all the shrinkage stresses that are locked up between the layers. Once your chamber hits 55C or so it just becomes a much nicer material, and at 85C it prints just like PLA does at room temp… except you can melt and cool ABS almost twice as fast, and it doesn’t string/dribble as much.

I love how ABS hardens really fast in comparison to PLA! No cat ear corners, and if I do have them (because of tiny cross sections) I just turned on the cooling fan and it takes care of it with super sharp corners.

ABS is terrible because people try using machines not optimized for them. Bedflingers are bad for ABS and heating and enclosing a bedflinger only bandaids the problem.

@Fook_INGSOC I love my PETG from MakerGeeks. cheap, consistent, high quality. it prints a bit hotter than other brands (255C) but is fantastic stuff. I print on an 85C plate without enclosure and have zero warping.

@Jared_Eldredge I agree with you. I print my first layers at 256 and drop down to 254 after that. Which straddles your temps. Minimal stringing. I used 75C for the bed and drop it back to 70C after the first couple of layers. The results are amazing. No enclosure and zero warping. Very tough, rigid parts.

I know a lot of people complain about MakerGeeks but their PETG is awesome.

@Jeff_DeMaagd is a “bedflinger” a 3D printer with a moving bed?

@NathanielStenzel Yes, sliding bed printers.

@Jeff_DeMaagd I guess when you weigh the bed with an increasing mass, your potential for slop is much higher!!!

Hmmm…I wonder if sliding bed printers have Z height slop from Y moves due to bed rock at the end of those Y moves. Hopefully not, but if there is any less than sturdy part or a spring or dampener involved, I imagine it could happen.

@Fook_INGSOC In my opinion, it’s not about slop. That can be controlled. The problem with constantly moving the bed is you’re disrupting the warm boundary layer around the part, cooling it too rapidly. In my experience, the amount of extra enclosure heating needed to make up for that cooling is about 15˚C. If a sliding bed machine would need 60˚C environment to print a certain part in ABS well, a non-sliding bed machine could do just as well at 45˚C.

So for most hobbyists, the answer may well just be to use PETG but there are still use cases for ABS too.

Ugh…could someone delete Miguel’s and Ouadah’s spam? I hate spam…

@Justin_Nesselrotte , spam cleanup, please.

@NathanielStenzel with pleasure!

Thank you