This is my H-bot I built over the last year. I designed and built everything (printed). I called it “Haqbot” because I go by “haqnmaq” on the interwebz. I just thought I would share.
Specs: Rumba running marlin
Inductive z probe for auto leveling
J-head bowden extruder
Smart lcd controller
H-Bot (core xy kinematics)
RGB led lit logo
Printing pla at 100mm/s in the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RD7l1AzviOU&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Is the design open and available with more info it looks neat
How’s the Build Tak working for you? Looks like you have that on top of a sheet of aluminium on top of the HBP and that’s working with your induction sensor… correct?
The design isn’t open yet, mainly because I am still changing things on it, and it will take me a while to get all the right files in order. The Build Tak is amazing! I love that stuff. I actually have a glass bed that I covered the top with aluminum tape before I layed down the Build Tak. The sensor wasn’t strong enough to detect metal on the underside of the glass. I will probably switch out the glass for aluminum pretty soon though.
You can see some of my progress through the build on my blog http://www.haqnmaq.com You can tell that it has gone through many different designs. (I do need to update the blog a little bit though)
wow nice job I like it
Thanks!
Good work! What kind of inductive proximity sensor did you use? How did you connect it to the rumba board?
I used the LJ12A3-4-Z/BY inductive sensor. It’s supposedly the same one used by Printrbot, but I didn’t order mine through printrbot due to the cost savings. The one printrbot sells works on 5v, but the one I used works best on 12v (even though it’s the same part number, the specs are different). So in order to use it, I had to attach it to 12v, and use a resistor voltage divider in order to get a 5v signal. Then the signal wire is hooked up to my z min endstop. NOTE: If you do go this route instead of the Printrbot one, make sure you are getting 5v (or around 4.5v in my case) signal on the output! If you wire it wrong, you will send 12v to the board (RUMBA) and fry it.
Many thanks for your help. What firmware do you use ? Marlin/Repetier ? Modified or standard?
Marlin. Just modified the “settings” for my printer, so no big changes in the code. All the features I use are currently in the latest version of Marlin.
I’ll try to configure that, hope my inductive sensor will arrive soon. Thanks again!
Very neat, came here to see the reliability of build tak. Looks like I’m grabbing a few now! Do you follow @Whosa_whatsis , he does a lot of work with Marlin and you could implement his volumetric settings.
I love build tak. It works amazing with pla, but I did have a few problems with abs. With build tak, you don’t want to squash the first layer like you would with kapton or glass. For pla thats easy since it doesnt really warp, but for abs I ended up squashing the first layer, and that made it stick so well that the part broke in half before I coud remove it. So for abs, I would recommend using a brim, don’t squash the first layer, and you should be fine. I am amazed how well it works! Very durable as well. I have probably put at least 100 hours on one sheet with pla.
Have you tried increasing the extrusion width percentage in slic3r for first layer? I have mine set to 200%-250% and get great adhesion throughout my prints @ about ~.35mm from the platform. Curious to see what its performance is on build tak.
I don’t set my first layer extrusion any higher than it should be, it works fine for pla, but I haven’t done a ton of experimenting with abs on Build Tak. I ruined one sheet of Build Tak, because I couldn’t get the ABS part off, but thats because I squashed the first layer down, which your not upposed to do. I have switched to glue stick on another bed for abs for now. Build Tak is great stuff, but still a little pricey. When it works though, it is well worth the money. On a side note, if you do get it, be careful when you lay it down because you only get one shot! If a small piece of plastic is on the build plate, you will get a bubble that you cant remove, and also be careful not to accidentally crease it.