Things are coming together...

Things are coming together…

3000 kV will be fine. The 4000 kV motor will spin 33% faster given the same voltage. You can make up for the difference by changing for a larger pinion on the motor.

@Daniel_Noree looking good! Are you planning on using these with an all-printed drivetrain?
@Szymon_Kobalczyk 260W wouldn’t be enough for me to call it “fun”. I run a LRP X11 9.5T stockspec (4200kV, 278W) in my 1:10 buggy and while it propels it forward quite nicely, it leaves me longing for just that tiny bit of extra power. A truggy will always require a beefier motor due to its greater weight and larger tires, so the 3000kV will probably not be enough here.

@Thomas_Sanladerer Yes I will start with the printed setup I have now. But I expect the drive train to shred to pieces the moment I hit full throttle! But it’s my way of evolving this project… I need to brake things to be able to make them better. :wink:

@Szymon_Kobalczyk I’ll leave it to the experts to comment on the engine, i don’t know enough about this stuff yet.

I’m also have this motor combo waiting for me at the post office:)

@Szymon_Kobalczyk the other variants, like the 3520kV or 4250kV, come with a “better” motor, giving you more power at less RPM. 600W and up is pure suicide, though, and not anything that’s fun to drive. Those are meant for on-road 1:10th touring cars, which are driven on tarmac only.
@Daniel_Noree be sure to not give it full throttle the first time you drive it (same goes for braking) and tune down the ESC’s aggressiveness settings, if you got the programming card. And do post pictures of the shredded gears :wink:

agree with Thomas I have a 500W motor in a 1/10th buggy ( a speed passion 3 5.5T). That’s in a buggy with all metal geared diffs. I have managed to break the diffs as I did not shim them correctly to get a good tight mesh.

My plastic geared diffs lasted just 10 minutes in long grass with the same motor.