The most perfect, difficult part I've ever printed...and in bridge nylon.Friends don't let friends

(Matt Kraemer) #1

The most perfect, difficult part I’ve ever printed…and in bridge nylon.Friends don’t let friends print at 12V.

(Øystein Krog) #2

I am still running my steppers at 12V, is the difference really all that big?
It would be cool if anyone had comparison shots.

(Matt Kraemer) #3

@Oystein_Krog The difference is in your retractions. At 24v I can retract 30% faster without stalling the motor.

@Mihail_MVSmaker This is printed directly from the drying chamber I’ve shown previously with teflon tubing protecting the filament all the way to the extruder so that only 2cm at a time touch the air.

Other settings which may interest you:
3000mm/sec retract acceleration
2100mm/min retract speed
8mm retract
.1mm lift on retract
242C print temperature
E3d hotend
Glass bed with elmers extra strength glue stick
7 loop connecting skirt/brim around the part
Heated bed temperature 45C.
Simplify3D start points adjusted for print speed and all advanced ooze settings on the far right of the advanced tab turned off.

(Alexey Kurilov) #4

My settings for Taulman nylon is cold bed and 260C head. Also use glue stick.

(Mihail (MVSmaker)) #5

что обычный прям клей карандаш?) я то мучаюсь - сделал платформу с нагревом до 180 градусов + лак и все равно края отходят…

(Alexey Kurilov) #6

Absolutely useful. I use as cheap as possible : ))) try 2 difference with same best result.
1.Heat up 3-4mm mirror glass to 60C-80C
2.Place glue
3.Cold down to room temp
4. Print.
5. If detail is BIG hot up to 80C again

Ordinary 1 glue is for 5-6 good prints.

PS: Don’t forget to wash detail after print (it’s in sticky glue)