The carriage in question looked something like this...the block on the right is the

The carriage in question looked something like this…the block on the right is the 40mm fan to cool the e3d, the block you can see on the back left was for part cooling, and each bearing surface was supported by two bushings.

It also had slots for zipties to retain the extruder.

(Yeah, and for those of you saying ‘you’re 90% of the way there, just press print’, I hear ya! :slight_smile: )

Looks kind of like Jason’s:

And also like mine a few pictures into this post:


Yeah, that’s the one! How’s it working for you?

Works great. It is a tough supported print because I made it one piece. But cable routing is good and it is designed for a standard computer 8 pin connector to be mounted to the carriage so all wiring is modular.

One thing I would change is widen the carriage to have a part cooling fan on each side if the nozzle for unsupported overhangs in PLA. I get asymmetric results depending on the overhang location on the part. More cooling in PLA = better.

One note on mine is I made a small adjustable deflector for the cooling fan output. Just a “U” shaped piece with a flap that slides over the bottom of the carriage to direct the air more towards the nozzle verses straight down. It helped a lot. When I redesign it will be part of the carriage once I find the perfect orientation with my temporary piece.

Timelapse of PLA print with deflector installed (prior to optimizing retraction):

And just for fun my prints that just finished for converting my big printer from CoreXY to Eustathios/Ingentis style. These are beefed up versions to handle the 24" span and use 10mm diameter cross bars:

What’s the hole opening diameter for the 10mm bushings?

I think 15.9mm od. I made it in solidworks… So if you want to try it let me know the OD and depth you want. Also how much the hole should be oversized if your printer IDs end up undersized.

The OD of the igus bushings are 14.1 mm and 12.76mm deep

My printer is a work in progress. :slight_smile: Currently a 3%-5% upscale is necessary to get external dimensions correct. I haven’t calibrated internal dimensions yet…that’s what the drill is for.

For me I find a .2 oversize on IDs help. Also printing in ABS and wiping the hole with acetone before pressing the bushing in to avoid cracking.

Measure the ID of the hole on your current setup versus nominal and we can get a good idea of the optimal oversize you need.

@Mike_Miller I’m am out this weekend. I will adjust the model and send it to you Sunday night.

No rush, I’m battling my own printing demons. :wink: