Right PID is I think tuned… hovering between 189.9 and 190.1 for a 190 target while printing a 3dbenchy. PID values are P50 I0.7 D85. Autotuned values were P55 I6.192 D122!
Things I have left to solve:
Stop the horrible rattle which is appearing to come on some diagonal moves. I suspect its the blower fan vibrating inside its housing. Anybody got a good source for a quality 24v 4020 fan? I got a very cheap one from china and I think its bouncing around inside the case.
Figure out a good start/end gcode that doesn’t result in filament being dragged all through the first layer of the print. This is probably a bed adhesion issue, I’m using mirrored glass and I don’t think I’ve spread enough glue stick over the starting area yet.
Dial in e-steps a little more, getting some stringiness and possible over extrusion.
Figure out correct retraction settings, currently using 2mm at 60mm/s. Am somewhat afraid of dialling it up any more because of the warnings about the heatbreak in the e3d v6. What do the rest of you use for retraction with the bondtech extruder?
@Ben_Delarre funny thing - i just read about this warnings on the E3D site the other day and tuned my retract down from 6mm to 2mm which they suggest for bowden use. They say the E3D needs much less than others. I already had 6mm on a v5 bowden before which worked great and haven’t had too much issues with that so far on the v6.
Turns out 2mm is way too less for me. I turned it up to 4mm and this is already closed to perfect. On materials that come out rather liquid (like PLA and PETG) it’s quite not enough but i think 4,5 or 5mm will do it. Definitely keep the speed at 60mm/s or even higher if you can. That will help.
Regarding e-steps tuning on the extruder: Be sure to watch every aspect - especially filament diameter and set your slicer accordingly. I lately played with esteps too much not noticing that the filament diameter was the issue which i totally forgot to set in the Slicer. I’d also suggest to use a more accurate slicer like Slic3r for tuning. Cura or other more simple slicers sometimes offer enough settings if you’re going to print to exact measures.
For the start/end g-code i often do a line from left to right at the starting point, 5mm forward and then a parallel line back. All of that with a little bit overextrusion and a clean manual retract at the end. that helps me keep the nozzle clean and get the filament right to the tip of the nozzle.
Here’s an example of a Start-G-Code i used with Cura in Repetier Host (you may of course use it anywhere but the temp variables only work with cura) before http://pastebin.com/raw.php?i=vkwV3zgh some comments included - maybe that helps as a starter.