Sorry for many posts recently.
Do you have any experience of clogging at heat breaker of E3D v6?
If you have, what is the solution to fix this.
I’m guessing this might be happened during pulling out filament for change, or frequent retraction being performed.
When printing Aria the dragon, my extruder clicking and failed to extrudes at 4 legs & tail parts. This also might be related with current issue.(This is not happened when printing simple models)
My extruder has been running for 1 and 1/2 years without any problem.
I’m using custom fan duct I designed. and its cooling performance was pretty good. (I can keep touching cooling fins when hotend is printing temperature)
MY acceleration setting is default.
Retraction: 3
Retraction speed 40
#E3D
What’s your retraction distance? Is that 3mm amd 40mm/s?
@Marcus_Wolschon 3mm, of course.
How can the all metal hotend formerly have a “smooth surface”, yet have “pores”? It’s either polished properly or it isn’t.
I’m begin to wonder everyone who using E3D hotend have experienced similar problem. It doesn’t make sense to have such popularity in that case.
@Ross_Bagley What if refine the hole using reamer? Will it help?
Reduce your retraction to 1mm or less.
Ensure that your PTFE tube is inserted as far as it can go into the heat break.
The fan needs to blow over the lowest fins of the heatsink and needs to run at full speed the entire time the hot end is warm.
Since it was not cast, there is no need to contaminate your hot end with oil.
I don’t think it is just retraction issue.
when I tried to change filament, melted parts of filament can be left in heat break during pulling. I have experienced it twice. I don’t know it is design problem or just defective product.
Oiling hot ends is a long-used and well-documented means of taking a marginal hot end and making it reliable. There are multiple proposed mechanisms for this working. One is the “seasoning” concept where the oil hardens into a permanent non-stick layer. I don’t buy this: most extruder jams occur in the cold-zone near or above the heat break. The oil never cooks into a hard layer in this zone because it’s never hot enough to do so. And in the region where the oil CAN get hot enough to cook solid, the filament is a liquid and thus simply can’t form a jam at all.
The fact that low smoke-point oils typically don’t smoke when used for this purpose is further proof that seasoning is not occurring.
Much more likely, the oil is acting as
- a simple lubricant film to keep jams from sticking
And/or
- a heat transfer medium between the filament and the cold zone to help keep the filament solid and cool until it fully enters the melt zone.
You are either printing at too high a temperature or the cooling on your heatsink is insufficient.
@Wylie_Hilliard I’ll check it again thoroughly. Hopefully find cause soon.
Oil seasoning or lubricant method is not an option to me. If it is the only solution, seller should notice that their product need additional treatment. And I would have not bought it.
Needing oiling typically means something is inadequate with the heat dissipation from the cold end. Room is too hot, heat sink is loose, fan is dying, heatsink fins are blocked, etc.
Lots of poor information in this thread.
@DongWon_Han_DWONH , 3mm is too much retraction for a direct hotend. This is discussed in E3D’s documentation, 1mm or less is plenty. Additionally, your “Custom fan duct” is likely part of the problem too. The fins should not even be warm to the touch. You cannot take aproduct, modify it in a way that is not recommended, then blame the product when it doesn’t work properly. Where did you buy your hotend from?
@Ross_Bagley , the Lite6 has a PTFE liner, not PEEK. Also PLA printing is not a common problem with E3D’s hotends. Less than 2% of customers report issues with PLA printing, and most of the time it is the customer doing something wrong (like excessive retraction, improper assembly, using an ineffective fan duct, etc)
@Tim_Elmore Mine is bowden, not direct.
What is the maximum length for bowden for E3D hotend? I used 4 when using J-head without any problem.
I bought it from E3D-online.
I had same clogging issue, when I tried change filament with genuine E3D fan duct.
But, I’ll confirm about my fan duct again today.
It is possible you damaged the heat break by not providing enough cooling, meaning that there is carbonized plastic stuck to the inside of it now. E3D recommends 2mm in their documentation for Bowden setups.
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Troubleshooting
Have you contacted E3D directly? They have sold tens of thousands, they’re pretty knowledgable on this sort of thing.
@Tim_Elmore I read it also, but in their document, they said “A good starting place is around the 2mm mark, which you can increase if required. Retractions of 5mm or more are troublesome.” It is not 2mm recommendation.
Right, but that is just a general estimate. It depends on many other factors. You should contact E3D directly if you haven’t already, rather than asking folks with considerably less experience than the creators.
@Tim_Elmore Yes, I already contacted them, waiting for answer.
Thank you for kind comment.