@Justin_Nesselrotte I used a Printrbot Play with out of the box settings. The secret to bridging seems to be “go slow”. I printed the layer in question at 10mm/s. I suspect results would improve if I went even slower.
I suspect this would do well on almost any printer. I still need to figure out how to avoid stitching misses. If you have a long move before a bridge, the ooze will cause a stitch miss. That should be easily solved by an extra amount of extrusion or just a short pause to let the nozzle melt nearby plastic.
@lightshadown There is no program yet. I just enumerated an algorithm that a program could use. I am hoping to integrate this into Cura but it is an open question as to whether this will fit into its workflow and meet the efficiency requirements. On a sidenote, I am seriously considering making a testbed slicing engine that is student friendly. I would like to allow my students a way to do quick experiments.
I am quite certain that your printer could do this. I would be glad to share the gcode if you want to give it a try.
@Nicholas_Seward if you are so kind to provide the gcode, i will try it, im using a Craftbot + ABS + buildtak + Glass,
also ill sugest, if you really manage to make something like this really work, any company will buy it from you, so good luck my friend, something like this will improve alot the 3d printing enviroment. cheers
@Nicholas_Seward I’d be very interested in testing out the code. I can modify a lot of printing parameters directly while printing on my printer that could provide some valuable feedback.
@Jeff_Parish@lightshadown I emailed the gcode. Let me know if it didn’t come through. This is my first time trying to email using nothing but a G+ username.
I still wonder and beeing amazed how long Strings of very thin Material can go. Usually we don’t want them so I got the idea to use them to build a spidernet Bridge first with these now wanted stringing an then build on top of that…
@Kelvin_T_Mtemeri if you print in the air, for example between two parts that are apart from each other. Since a 3D Printer can’t normally print in the air it is like building a bridge
@Kelvin_T_Mtemeri In the image you see the two parts in the orientation they were printed in. The spans and overhangs were “Bridged” meaning there was no support material under them. The printer is spanning between two supports in open air. With conventional bridging techniques you need to use straight spans. Since there is nothing to stick the strand to in between, floating open holes and curves are typically not possible. The fact the image above shows both is the magic of this new approach to bridging.