So I’m looking to build a new 3D printer and I’m wanting high-end features like fast movement while extruding, high resolution, solid construction, and easy calibration. I don’t want to be constantly fighting calibration issues. I’d like a good size build volume, 200x200x200 at a minimum.
I’m looking at the Prusa i3, the Mendel Max, and also something like the RostockMax. I’m very intrigued by the delta printers because all of the motion is in the head. (For comparison, I have a Cupcake.)
I know there are people who swear by delta printers and also people who swear by Cartesian printers. I understand that the resolution on delta printers change depending on where the nozzle is. I’ve also seen some interesting patterns that develop when printing flat filled areas.
I’d really like to know more, to collect more shared experiences, and be able to weight the pros and cons of each and make a decision.
check out @Tim_Rastall s work on his ingentis.based on the ultimaker/ tantillus by Sublime/ and the tslot tantillus by Goopyplastic. This the route im making
If you’re looking to self-source and are a very experimental person, I second @Tim_Rastall 's ingentis. If you’re looking for an already-assembled machine, the ultimaker and bukobot are great choices. If you’re looking for a already fully sourced kit, but want clear instructions and no bullshit, I suggest the ultimaker as well (if you can put together ikea furnature, you can put together the ultimaker kit)
I’m currently building a large delta and although I was careful with expenses I’m already at about 750$. DIY is expensive. You pay primium on parts and lots of shipping costs.
I cant speak on delta but the tantillus and ultimaker get resolution and accuracy out of this world. amd with the low mass carriage acceleration and speed ain’t bad either
I’d agree with @D_Rob , tantillus will be cheaper than Ultimaker, but comes with much more headaches as it is self built and sourced. The Ingentis is a derivative of those but on heavy steroids. I’d honestly stick to a smaller printer before heading into the world of large prints. It would be better for your sanity. Like getting pricked in the finger vs being hit in the face with a 2x4. I haven’t worked with deltas, but from what I’ve read, I’m surely not mentally ready to yet. Still recovering from the scars of my Cartesian printer
Good luck, and welcome
Edit: derp, you have a cupcake. You are obviously versed in 3d printing. Check out http://Richrap.blogspot.com
Thanks for all the comments. Some more information about my preferences.
I am completely turned off by using string instead of belts.
I would prefer any gears or sprockets to not be printed. I know first hand how any variation in gears or sprockets can affect print quality.
I am highly skeptical about delta printers and how smooth flat surfaces can be. Also the X/Y resolution variations are concerning.
I’m leaning towards something like the ingentis. I’m wondering why he went through all the trouble of getting nice big straight smooth rods to do double duty when he has nice straight extrusions so close. It seems to me it would be simpler to use those extrusions as rails, and use much cheaper rods to keep the gantry sides synchronized. I like the ultimaker design, but it didn’t use extrusions, so I can see why they doubled up on the rods.
@Brian_Bartlow , T-slot isn’t rated for straightness. Linear rod is. They basically guarantee that it’ll be within X mm per meter of straight. The T-slot is also aluminum, which wears easier over time if you have something running against it and is more prone to dust being caught in the tracks, etc.
@ThantiK True enough, but the larger the build volume, the more structure needed to support the extruder, even if using a bowden setup. At some point the extra beam strength of the t-slot, or v-slot, or openbeam, will make up for any initial disadvantage.
What about using dual stepper motors for all three axis? Would using dual stepper motors for both the X and Y axis allow them to move faster without skipping steps? How difficult is it to keep dual stepper motors in sync?
@Brian_Bartlow you say extra beam strength. Yes the beams are more rigid in bending than wood which is why it was used, but as @ThantiK mentioned, the flatness and hardness cannot be met with the extrusion. I’ve read blogs of people using 608 bearings on the side of extrusion. Eventually, the aluminum yields and the surface is worn down. Much like a rolling pin on dough, the aluminum is not hard enough. The flatness may not be terribly noticeable since the bearings or rollers are much bigger than the balls in a linear bearing, but if you are going for large size, the bearing load on the extrusion would be very large, so it’s better to move the load to hardened steel rod.
as for dual stepper motors, what is the benefit? It’s not difficult to keep them in sync at all as the allegro step controller will just get pulsed identically (or you could just gang them onto the same controller but that would probably overheat you controller, defeating the purpose), but why deal with the added weight overhead when you can use a single motor with a higher torque rating. to answer your question though, yes, adding higher torque in the motor will prevent skipped steps, just as reducing the required torque by weight reduction.
@Eric_Moy is delrin on anodized aluminum worse than brass on steel? If so, it would be easy enough to use openrail or an actual linear rail attached to the extrusion.
The benefit of dual steppers would be to simplify the mechanics. Each belt could be directly driven by a pulley attached to the stepper. No need for additional pulleys or shafts that span the build area.
I’m more concerned about synchronizing the dual steppers when they are off. I’m guessing that some sort of calibration will be needed every time the printer is powered on.
Delrin on even non anodized aluminum should actually be fine, since the Delrin would wear long before the aluminum, but this doesn’t solve the issue of beam deflection. The steel rod would prevent the carriage from sagging in the middle on the long spans.
I’m not seeing your vision apparently on the steppers, as adding a second stepper is much more complex than simply using a higher torque motor. Adding a second motor is also much heavier than using a motor with twice the torque.
Of you did decide to use 2 motors, you’d only need to align them once. If they’re both on the same pulley, simply loosen the set scree on both of their drive pulleys, then power both of them on. While powered, tighten the set screws. You should never run into a situation where one motor skips steps while the other doesn’t, so there’s no need to ever realign.
@Eric_Moy ah, okay, I see the disconnect. I’m considering something like the ultimaker but without using the rods for double duty. Instead of using rods to support the extruder as well as connect the belts on opposite sides, I’m thinking of using either normal linear rails or something like the openrail or v-slot and delrin rollers in combination with dual steppers. Each stepper would be independent mechanically and connected to opposite sides of the gantry. I’m thinking the build volume could scale better and maybe the system will be more sturdy and simpler. I’d probably still use rods for the inner “rails” because there will be less weight and they will allow things to be smaller at the extruder.
