So I made some leads,

So I made some leads, DB25 — molex to connect all the ramps things up. Then snipped the molex off of the printer leads and put corresponding db 25’s on them. Printed out a mount for it . Now I can pop two connectors off and remove the printer. I also added a skirt around the drop pan so the fan air wont escape. Ive got an AV2 input jack to mount to the panel, and a nice blue power led for the front, which will be driven off the powered hub I hacked up. :slight_smile: Getting close now. I need to make my panels now. Landed up with one bad crimp out of all of them. Its all good now.

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… Yep defiantly rethinking my enclosure. Once I get the printer up and running again ill post some pics of it (def not as fancy as yours but functional) I was thinking of redoing the enclosure with extruded aluminum and plexiglass. But the thing is by no means small…

Yeah please forgive the kinda bad pictures. Movin around to do this stuff hurts and there is still too much to be doing to take the effort to get good pics. Aside from the panels, I may fab a plexi case for the top. Few camera mounts, and thats about it. I considered putting an automated vent in the middle of the drop pan for cooling the bed quick.

Does anyone have any “Molex for morons” resources?

I know it’s hardly that complicated - just a crimp and an enclosure - but even finding the right parts to buy if you want to create a nice quick-disconnect connection is brutal if you have no experience. There’s a million and a half pins and parts you can buy with spec sheets a mile long.

I’ve wanted to do something like this for ages with my hot hot end, but I don’t even know what parts to buy to make it work right and am always so frustrated by trying to research it that I give up.

Ok the hot end is higher current. For that I used Anderson Powerpoles, 30 amp variety. Probably quite excessive but I have them laying around so it works.

Crimping is simple if you know what to look for , the part that holds the wires (not the insulation) gets the part of the crimper where it has a ridge raising in the center. The anvil has two different shapes, a nice rounded end for the insulation, and the part with the raise in the center to curl the wire retention part down and into the wire. Most crimpers will have instructions. They are worth reading.
A decent way to get the right pins is digikey live chat. grab a link with a picture of what you want, show the cross reference people it and they are always happy to help out. Bear in mind a good crimper cost ALLOT . The best ones ratchet and will not release until the proper force has been applied, and the really really nice ones have replaceable anvils. You are looking at about 30$ for a bottom line working crimper , and the price can go as high as you can imagine. A good crimper designed for the pins you choose is pretty critical to getting good results.