Small build review to follow for those that are curious - but in the meantime - do I need to switch to Marlin to get rid of the pausing at higher print speeds?
Also, anyone with a rostock max care to share some retraction settings for higher speed prints? I’m shooting for 60-80mm/s … is that ludicrous? E3D hotend is on the way, I don’t want to deal with this one longer than I have to.
60-80 should be achievable, it certainly is with a Cartesian bot. I run 60mm/s infill as a default on the Ingentis. @Matt_Kraemer1 should be able to tell what speeds you can get out of a delta on Marlin.
Is the repetier firmware causing the pauses? I haven’t switched to Marlin yet…
I have another printer so can make a wades if necessary. I’m dealing with the stock nozzle for now…
The abs rod arms are supposedly stiffer than earlier versions- they don’t seem to shake much yet. Got any replacement recommendations? Everyone seems to go to magnetic ball linkages…
to me those pauses look like waiting for retraction before moving on, and I believe all the firmwares do that now.
FYI I use Marlin on my Delta and I print 80mm/sec perimiters and 120mm/sec infill. with 1/16 microstep, so around 55 steps/mm
Oh and 100 segmetns/sec
Since Matt mentioned me I’ll just chime in that with my direct drive extruder/bowden tube setup I’m pulling retract/primes at 280mm/s with a distance of 5.8mm. With PLA at ~220C (depending on mfg) I’m printing infills at 140mm/s, travels at 200mm/s, outer perimeters I keep under 50mm/s for best quality. No stringing. Make sure the firmware E_speed is high enough otherwise the extruder stepper will not be able to achieve the desired retract/prime speed and will stutter. Temperature has to increase based on desired print speed.
Also, luckily I’ve been very successful with my magball design. I use 3/8" machined ball bearings bonded to carbon fiber rods. The balls have a machined nub that press fits into the hole of the C.F. tube. The magnets are pressed into the effector platform and the brackets of the vertical carriages. The key breakthrough for my design has been to create a socket for the ball where the ball physically has to ‘pop’ into the socket. This prevents the rod from popping out of the socket prematurely, but it can still be removed when required with a decent tug. The magnet pulls the steel ball into the base of the socket which eliminates backlash completely. I also use a 3/8" round burr on a drill to smooth the sockets of the printed parts and adding a light film of lithium grease on the balls keeps the interface super slippery. It works great.
So far the stock arms seem to be holding up well, although from what I gather the problem that I’m likely to see is backlash? How does that manifest itself, in terms of a flawed part? I’m running around 60mm/s, =/- 5mm depending on line type. I think I’ve eliminated drooling with 7.5mm of retraction at 95mm/s - the ez-struder seems fairly capable so far!