Should have done this ages ago, flat glass and tool-less levelling.

Should have done this ages ago, flat glass and tool-less levelling.

How do you find your Acrylic Y-carriage and bed?
Have you had any warpage problems with it?
Have you printed ABS, ie been up to high temps on the bed?
What thickness is it?

I only ask as I’m currently planning my next printer and didn’t know wether to give laser cut Acrylic a go rather than brushed Ali!

How does your tool-less leveling work? Is it a spring supported bed held down with the kapton tape strip there?

@Stephen_Baird I believe he is referring to the thumb wheels on the nuts!

@Stephen_Baird The strip of Kapton is used to hold the glass bed stationary, similar to how people use clips.

The Acrylic has been fine, aside from not letting the top layer move up and down freely, but I deleted the springs anyway as it was a shit idea.

I print in ABS, yes, before the glass I ran up to 115C, it’s sitting next to me now at 132.6C to get a surface temp of 99.5C on top of the glass, no warping to speak of. 1cm ish air gap between the heater and the acrylic.

Ha, I didn’t even see that, I was thinking it was a pulley or something until I looked closer and discovered that belt is clear… And a solid piece of acrylic.

Cheers good to know! I think I’ll give laser cut Acrylic a go then before shelling out for a custom Ali frame.

@Stephen_Baird I only knew as I used them before on a build! lol

For your next upgrade you may want to put insulation of some kind in that air gap. It seems to help speed up the heating process, and may help prevent stress cracks from heating and cooling in the acrylic.

I can’t think of the name for what most people use, I think it’s a heater blanket or something like that made out of woven fiberglass. Like this maybe?

I am tempted to stuff it full of cotton wool, see if I can get the surface temp up a bit more.

Use the wavy cardboard covered in heat reflective tape underneath the bed like here and I find placing a 200mm x 200xmm x 10mm piece of wood on the bed whilst it gets to temp handy for speeding up things!

WOW! Parts are welded down now, I suggest my IR thermometer lied and it was in fact 130C on top too. Less next time.

Also nice that my parts don’t say “HOT ZONE” backwards on the bottom.

Bracken, I put exhaust wrap in the gap on my printer. I should have a little bit of the 10 meters left over! If I can find it, I’ll bring it tomorrow night.

bonjour quelle type plaque de ver que vous utiliser sur le lit chauffant

hello what worm plate type you use on the heating bed

PCB heatbed Mk1