Probably it is a question already asked a million times,

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(Stefano Pavanello) #1

Probably it is a question already asked a million times, but which is the best glue for attaching PLA part together? I try cyanoacrylate but it seems to glue very well only on big flat surface of the pieces, if the touching part are small it seems not to work. Also PVA glue seems work well, but has a very long drying time. Any other suggestion/try? :slight_smile: For ABS I think cyanoacrylate works a lot better than on PLA

(Wayne Friedt) #2

If you use the thicker CA glue it might help.

(Stefano Pavanello) #3

You mean the “Gel” type? Thanks, I will try it :slight_smile:

(Zac Mcgrade) #4

Mate try araldite

(Wayne Friedt) #5

When i used to build RC airplanes i used a thin, medium and a thick so i was referencing from that. Might be a gel now as well, but yes i would say anything besides the thin would be better. If you do not like the drying time of the CA there is a little pump spray to speed it up, i think called “kicker”. An instant dry spray. If kicker is used the surface will be somewhat ruff compared to natural drying and may need to be sanded. This was 25 years ago so probably better stuff out now. Good Luck!

(Zac Mcgrade) #6

Ok yea do you fly rc lanes I drive 1/10 on road cars in races

(Stefano Pavanello) #7

Araldite is the epoxy bi-component! Yes it is a lot of time that I don’t use that. I flown RC planes and also driving 1/10 RC cars for fun now :slight_smile:

(Zac Mcgrade) #8

Yea I race hear at landsborough

(Zac Mcgrade) #9

What brand car you racing

(Stefano Pavanello) #10

We recently bought sakura zero S, very good for the price in my opinion. Me and @Christian_Filippi had made a small track with also a lap timing system based on arduino, for fun with some friends. I think it’s quite off-topic but check some videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDWHrKMyeD0&feature=youtube_gdata_player and, anyway 3D printing is useful also for RC cars :smiley: :smiley:

(Zac Mcgrade) #11

I’m running a Sakura zero as well

(Thomas Sanladerer) #12

@Stefano_Pavanello timing system you say? I’m building one as well for racing our Associated B4s, but haven’t found a good way to distinguish the individual cars yet so I’m just using a light barrier so we can at least time one car. How are you taking the time of the individual cars? 
Oh, by the way, water will also accelerate CA glue just like the expensive commercial products.

(Stefano Pavanello) #13

Yes, we have made a quite tricky system but it works flawless! I have to prepare documentation and I want to share it on BadDevices blog. Anyway it works in this way. There is an Arduino basestation with a cheap RF 433Mhz receiver. Every car has an arduino micro with an RF trasmitter (cost about 5€) and an IR sensor. The IR barrier is set above the straight line. Each car count itself its time and the trigger is the IR barrier, then every car transmit its code, lap number and time to the basestation in a sort of time division protocol. The base station is connected to a PC running a simple java program that displays lap times, best times and so on. I’m very proud of this system because we develop entirely by our own :slight_smile: I know that the time base is divided and not unique, but the Micro has quartz (not RC oscillator like mini) so they are quite precise at millisecond. In this way we can run all togheter and everyone can check its pace.

(Thomas Sanladerer) #14

+Stefanoc Pavanello that sounds pretty awesome, thanks for sharing! Keep us posted when you put up the documentation documentation - I’ll have to try out how well that would work off-road.

(Stefano Pavanello) #15

Yes @Thomas_Sanladerer , we are busy now with the BadPrinter2 project, but this ChronoRC is the next on the to do list. I’m interested in the new Arduino Yun because with it I can share the timing on a web page, make statistics, share in real time etc…

(Camerin hahn) #16

If ca dries too slowly you can accelerate it with water. Use water sparingly as it makes the joint brittle. Any accelerator will do that though. I typically glue a large surface the spray 2 corners so it holds it while the part dries. If you want a really nice and solid joint pin it (drill a hole in both items that a paperclip fits snugly into then glue it together)

(Rojer Wisner) #17

My newness to this may betray me, but I used a hot glue gun to fix two different PLA models. Seems to be working so far. However, larger amounts of hot glue will melt the PLA. I did see a trick where the hot glue was applied to a single edge razor blade and then spread like putty in to the part. The string can be mildly annoying.

(Stefano Pavanello) #18

Thanks everyone for the suggestion, there is a lot of very different method! I will have to try, also with hot glue… I like to use the hot glue gun.

(Zac Mcgrade) #19

Ok good talkin to you stephano hope your skakura goes well like mine is oh and I watches that video pretty cool