Hi, I have a Anycubic Kobra 2 Max 3D Printer. I print parts for my Steel guitar but when I use PLA + in the heat or sun, it melts and deforms. When I print with filament that is more heat resistant like ASA or ABS it don’t stick to the base and come lose even if the temp is set to manufacture specs. How do I get the printing done. I even tried to put PLA + at the bed plate and change over to ASA but then it lift on the sides. I am out of ideas.
That’s an open frame printer. ABS and ASA need a heated chamber to print reliably, because they shrink substantially as they cool. Before I had a heated printer, there was almost nothing I could print successfully in ABS.
I print ABS in a heated chamber, and as soon as the chamber starts to cool, the prints pop right off. And PLA is support material for ABS because they don’t stick to each other well.
PETG might work on that printer. However, the first layer on PETG is tricky; if you try to “squish” it onto the bed, it doesn’t adhere and turns into a blob around the nozzle.
You might try HTPLA (High-Temperature PLA)? That might help with the melting problem? I haven’t tried it, but others might chime in with their experience?
What temp do the chamber needs to be inside? Seems the print temp is nozzle 240 and bed 90deg
I keep my bed at 100°C and chamber at 50°C for ABS and that has worked for me. Some recommend 60°C or 65°C for the chamber.
Thanks for that I will get a cover and try it.
I have never even used a printer but was about to say … cardboard box with a thermostat and a low wattage incandescent light bulb. I used to do that for an epoxy-pump when building a composite aeroplane.
The same as the bed. Hotter would heat the bed.
An NTC heater with fan (12V or 210V) is safer, because it always stays below ignition temperature thanks to the negative temperature coefficient, yet it can provide substantial power; enough to stay really warm enough.
For a large printer, I used a total of 600W of NTC heaters; one 200W plus one 400W. Both 120V. (Imagine using 600W of incandescent bulbs… 
)
Sounds like a permanent solution. Cardboard might work, but I will have to do babysitting in case it catches fire.
They make custom enclosures for printers that are supposed to be flame-resistant, and the NTC heaters aren’t that expensive.
Line it with fibreglass or rockwool insulation. If you need 600W, you need thermal insulation too. Rockwood is reasonably rigid on it’s own. Check to see the duty cycle of the heaters.
If you do, try using PETG and you still have trouble with adhesion nano polymer adhesive. It works really well from vision miner. At first I didn’t even want to like it cuz I was thinking like oh another thing to purchase just to get my prints to stick but I have to give flowers where they do. It works really well.
I’ve heard surprisingly it works well with ASA and ABS too.
I modified the enclosure for my printer (Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro) which is a canvas-like material stretched on a frame (Elegoo 3D Printer Enclosure – ELEGOO US). I cut the bottom out, leaving 2 inch flaps, built a box two inches thick with a lid made of perf board and no bottom. That box sits on top of another box that is four inches larger on the sides and one inch larger in the front and a hole slightly smaller than the upper box (for air movement). Both boxes are divided down the middle. I have an elegoo air purifier (ELEGOO Marsmate Air Purifier for Resin 3D Printer – ELEGOO US) underneath. I 3D printed a cap for it so that I could capture the scrubbed and heated air and put it into one side of the bottom while the intake for the purifier draws from the other side. The idea is that it will help maintain the air tempurature inside instead of pulling cool air into a heated printer.
Picture below the enclosure showing the purifier and tubing: IMG_20260424_105510087_BURST004
Picture showing inside the enclosure with the exchanger beneath: IMG_20260424_105618515_HDR