Please help :( Originally shared by TeamDogoman Rc Hi! I finally built my self

Please help :frowning:

Originally shared by TeamDogoman Rc

Hi! I finally built my self a drying bucket to dry my Nylon 910 alloy filament, and i’ve been trying to print with it. I’ve come across some problems.
First off, the layers are peeling apart easily after printing, like so easy that you can peel it apart with your fingers. Second, when the print gets to the top (where its a bit thinner) it starts to get all deformed and seems to be under extruding a bit. I’m really getting frustrated at this point, and I would greatly, greatly appreciate any help!
heres the print settings i’ve tried…
Print temp: 245º-255º
bed temp: 50º
Print speed: 30-40
Layer height: 0.1 - 0.2
and i’ve tried it with and without cooling on.

I had identical issues when I first started out with 910. The layer de-lamination is most certainly moisture related. A good drying session resolved this issue for me. To be honest, I was also frustrated at first and dumped the roll back in the drying bucket for about a month. When I got back to trying it the issue went away, hence my determination it was moisture. (Nylon can be very difficult to dry if it has been exposed to moisture for some time). As for your second problem, it is just too much concentrated heat for the thinner sections. If you watch closely you’ll see the previous layer or two is partially or completely molten, so the layer being printed doesn’t stay in place. In fact the new material from the nozzle just “pulls” the previous material along with the nozzle movement. I have similar issues with other high temp materials like PC as well. I’ve had very good success running the layer cooling fan at between 30 to 60% in the thinner areas. (In S3D you can set the fan to turn on at specified layer). If you have an enclosed printer you can also try keeping it open for the smaller parts. Your settings look OK. I can’t recall at the moment my nozzle temp, but I think I run at 255 or 260. I run my bed a bit hotter, about 60, but that’s because I’m heating the aluminum bed plus 6mm of glass. With those temps I can run up to 60mm/s print speed, at both of those layer heights. Good luck and let us know if any of this helps. Cheers. PS. I love my 910 so much now I print almost everything with it! Too bad my roll just ran out :frowning:

@Nick_Pagazani you probably right! I cranked up the heat so high the thinner sections could not handle it (hints why only the top pieces sucked) :expressionless:
I guess I’ll have to put it back in the drying bucket. How long do you recommend leaving it in there?

That’s the million dollar question! It would depend on how hot your bucket gets and how dry it actually gets in there. Mine is almost completely sealed with a bed of silica at the bottom to absorb the moisture. If yours is more like the taulman design with large holes in it, it could take longer.

@Nick_Pagazani mine is exactly like the taulman one

I live in an area where humidity tends to be very high and my thought with the taulman design was the draft created by the hot bulb would draw in humid air from the bottom holes, leaving just the heat from the bulb to do the drying, while humid air coming into the bucket would defeat the purpose. Even within their build instructions they state “NOTE: If ambient RH exceeds 60% this unit becomes less and less effective on it’s own”. In my design the bucket is virtually sealed except for a couple of 3mm holes in the top. Try taping over the bottom holes for a week or two until your material is well dried out. If the humidity in the room is low, then you can probably remove them. It goes without saying but this is the mileage I get, yours may vary and others may have totally different experiences. Good luck!

@Nick_Pagazani Thanks for the advice! I’ll definitely try that!

To me it looks alot like a slight under extrusion (you may try 104% or 1.04 factor depending on your host) and you might be printing a little to hot. Nylon can be very very difficult to be printed reliably. Actually i don’t dry my Nylon filaments at all! since those micro bubles in a print create a uneven surface were the next layer may stick better onto. That creates a less beatiful outer surface though.

That’s really interesting you can actually get it to work wet, but then maybe it depends on which nylon you are using. The 910 layer adhesion is extremely poor when the material is wet, and incredibly good when dry, to the point of supports or rafts being very difficult to remove. In addition, it tends to shrink more when wet, so bed adhesion and warping becomes an issue. Perhaps over-extrusion compensates for some of the issues, but at what cost? Dimensionally accurate parts? unreliable printing performance? But hey, everyone’s mileage varies.

That’s very offensive for a supportive comment anyway. I print 645 Taulman and cheap trimmer line. The effect to the outer surface and accuracy can be limited if not removed when printing even slower ~30mm/s 20mm/s for outer lanes. Warping effects may greatly be reduced if you manage to print as cool as your hotend is able to reliably melt the material (i have had nice Nylon prints down to ~220°C), which also increases with slower print speeds. The reason why i expected underextrusion is that the printer failed to bridge the lanes above the support where as i don’t get any point from you.

Klaus, my apologies for coming across offensive, I didn’t intend that. My point was simply that your printing methodology (wet, over-extrusion) is against typical advice for nylon. But if it works, then go for it. In fact, I might be inclined to try your technique the next time I have wet nylon and no patience waiting for it to dry. I also agree with your point that in the photos of the part does appear to be under-extruded, though I’m not convinced that over-extruding is the solution as there may be other print settings causing this to happen.

Thx. About this overextrusion, what happens to me often as i am printing many very different materials from different sources is that it is very likely that materials extrude very unequally. For example my fullmetal hotend produces much more resistance with PLA than it does with ABS. Also the diameter and accuracy of the diameter may vary alot. I get 3mm compatible filaments in diameters from 2.65 till 2.95 (i write the flow rate instead of diameter on my spools when i tried them). So i didn’t mean to extrude too much, just to extrude the right ammount which might need some tweaking espacially with new materials. Also printing cooler and or faster will produce some resistance which may cause you to recheck the flow rate (good examples are PET kinds).
The idea of printing undried nylon just slower intentionally came from tridimake @ http://www.tridimake.com/2014/01/how-to-3d-print-nylon-and-trimmer-line.html . I just tried this a year ago and stood with it as it worked for me nicely.

Hope you get it running @TeamDogoman_Rc