PETG seems to be the material of the future when it comes to prints

PETG seems to be the material of the future when it comes to prints that need to be particularly tough. Have you tried any PET or copolymer yet, and if so, what’s your take?

PETG is my favorite to print with when I need strong parts. Only downside is its oozy nature and sometimes stringy movements but I suppose the later could be solved with more messing around with my retraction settings.

Thinking of trying some PETG, but hear conflicting info about whether or not you need a heated bed.

@Tom_Nardi i’d definitely recommend a heated bed for copolyesters, but then again i also recommend using one for PLA.

AWESOME! The filament of the future, I believe. For every day printing it has pretty much taken of PLA and ABS. Rad to see is beat the system.

I have pretty much only been printing with PETG since discovering it at the start of this year. I print it quite cool though (215C) and find it doesn’t string at this temperature yet still seems strong.

Also, it’s very prone to soak the humidity from the air.

PETG/Copolymers are all I print. The ABS I have in stock just doesn’t get used and I don’t think I even have a straight PLA in stock either.

I love PETG, but can’t get my settings dialed in. I’m having problems getting it to stick to the bed. I have a heated aluminum bed, usually at about 70C, hot end at 245C. It is a (cheap) delta. Any suggestions?

I was sad when I ran out of PETG, now I’m back to using up my remaining spool of ABS.

I print Kexcelled PETG on PEI sheet at 70C, stick to the bed with no warp at all even at sharp corner, if I try lower than 55C the corner start to lift a bit.
Print temp is high for this one at 250C.

If you have aluminium bed then glue stick should help.

It’s good material overall, but it’s no winner in my eyes. I keep it on stock some small amount all the time for some special print no other material can’t hade it, but since starting printing ABS+, I very quickly forgot about all other materials.

@David_Sherwood ​ I print same ESUN ABS+ @ 255C extrusiontemp and have no problems whatsoever with layer adhesion. 235 is rather on the low side.

The material engineers at Ultimaker just keep saying “why does anyone want to print with ABS? PETG is superior in almost every way.”

@Daid_Braam mainly becaose of freedom one has printing complex objects needing support with single nozzle and becaose it simply works really reliably and very predictable. Regular ABS really wasnt most user friendly material with bigger geometryes, but ABS+ is completly different. Much less warping, no cracking between layers…

@Matej_Rozman PETG has all that and more… hell, if printing complex difficult shapes is your main concern you should be printing PLA with the proper cooling setup…

@Daid_Braam I competly agree with you on PLA, but PLA has just too low TG to be usefull, reliable if you will as finished print. If you paint it and bake the pant @ 50C things start to go crazy. It can deform way too easily. And summer time over here can be crazy hot witch is also not PLA friendly.

I’ve been printing with some red Hatchbox 1.75mm PETG for a couple of months (same spool). I bought it mainly because of its high temperature resistance, because I designed a cell phone mount that fit in my car’s cupholder, but after several (3?) PLA prints got destroyed by a hot day in my car I got some PETG. I print it on a room temp bed with blue tape on it, and that works great for me. No caustic ABS fumes had me saying to myself, “F**k ABS, I am sooo done with that!” Seriously, I have a near unused Kg I’m not sure I will ever use. I am so sick of heating up the bed. I still have and will use PLA, but PETG is great for when I need a little less brittle part and higher temperature resistance (like, in my car in the summer). I print both on a cool bed with blue tape and they work just great.

Big fan of PETG. Just don’t use it on bare glass. It’s also not really possible to use it with objects that need support, removal of PETG supports from PETG is not easy at all.

It’s especially great for big parts with low infill - giant scale models - use PETG.

@Richard_Horne - I have no issues with support with PETG, it’s just a matter of getting the separation distance correct and it’ll pull away easily. A good tip for S3D is to use a couple of dense layers and it’ll just pull away without issues. Agree with it on bare glass, I’ve killed 2-3 glass plates doing it.