Parts for my printer are trickling in at about the same pace I order

Parts for my printer are trickling in at about the same pace I order them… It’s like having Christmas every week!

I’m using the BOM from the Spider-V2, but ordered clear anodized fame, not black. Going to try a Replicape (http://www.thing-printer.com/product/replicape/) and see how it goes - waiting on delivery, but that’s OK… only just received the frame.

I have not tightened any screws on the frame yet… Wanted to ask a few questions before I put in the effort:

  1. I purchased ~20 extra T-nuts as I thought they might be handy as ‘tie-down’ points for extra “stuff”

In addition to the T-nuts shown to mount bearing holders, spool holder, etc., can anyone recommend placement for additional T-nuts?

  1. How accurate do I need to be when tightening up the frame?

Do I need take it the machine shop and get out the 123 blocks on a surface plate (alternately use my wife’s quartz kitchen countertops)?

Or…

Is using another (flat) piece of material against each joint while tightening sufficient?

P.S. Don’t tell the wife I’m pondering using her countertops.

I had the benefit of a lathe to true-up the ends. You’ll want to make sure everything is perpendicular. While all that ultimately matters is that the XY carriage is parallel to the build plate (and secondarily that the Z axis is perpendicular to the XY plane), the rest of the system has to be ‘true-enough’

The tolerances on 3d printers is relatively loose, when compared to things like Internal Combustion Engines.

@Mike_Miller is right, a square and a level should do it :wink:

For t-nuts, grab som post-assembly ones :

I did my best to lay stuff out on the aluminum build plate. A relatively flat counter top should work just as well. Definitely get post assembly T-nuts, you will forget some.

I think if your top is flat the rest will be fine using a simple square. Most of the motion is up at the top. Having the Z vertical and perpendicular to the x/y will eliminate a lot of issues out of the gate.

I didn’t have a square so I used a spare 2020 and clamped it to each finished joint to get them flush. I aligned everything to .05mm using the step feature of my calipers. Thats probably not necessary (it took me 4 hours) The top beams for me got a bit rotated and I haven’t been able to fix that. I used the alignment parts and put the printer on a countertop. (I found 1:30AM is a good time not to be found :P)

@Stefano_Pagani oh the idiotic mistakes I’ve made after 1am lol.

@jerryflyguy Yeah :stuck_out_tongue: at came back to it in the morning and I was wondering why carriage was upsidown :stuck_out_tongue:

Forgot about the existence of post-assembly T-nuts… Thanks for the link.

1:30am is definitely a good time to use the kitchen countertops, but with +Mike Miller getting serious with a lathe, I will probably finish assembly at my dad’s machine shop.

Is 40+ too old to have father-son projects?

@Benjamin_Liedblad god I HOPE not!

@Benjamin_Liedblad absolutely not! Love the projects my dad an I have done in his later years, very rewarding (for me at least!)

If you order one, don’t drop it on your foot. And not because it might affect it’s precision. :wink:

@Mike_Miller , not sure I understand… What shouldn’t I drop on my foot?

Well, I was talking about the 30 lb chunk of granite the surface plate is made out of…but you probably shouldn’t drop a 3d printer on your foot, either!

LOL… I don’t think I’m at risk. The surface plate I’ll be using can’t be moved by mere mortals - it takes an Egyptian pyramid builder or a forklift.