Originally shared by Yuan LIU
How much is a “dash” of hairspray? How long am I expected to wait? My current layer method is killing my patience. But I’m not getting good result without a “layer” layer.
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Why not just use PEI? You don’t have to keep reapplying
Cost is one factor. But experimenting with glass is also important. I always like the smoothness of the surface. (What I really like to do is to build on untreated glass, like some more skilled people do. So far no consistent result. I was very intrigued when I saw a commercial printer that does this at Maker Faire this year. Alas, it starts from US$2,500.)
You can use the shiny side of PEI but it will eventually lose its shine if not just get scuffed and scratched.
I never got good with hair spray but I didn’t try hard either. I think you need enough of a layer that you get a visible texture to it.
Based on my experience with a Robo3D R1: If the bed is heated, it doesn’t take much. Just enough for an even coat.
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I use glue stick on glass
Spray glue or ABS juice…but there are no miracles… The overall temperature is an important factor as well. During winter i use a chicken heating lamp above the printer, heat then radiates downwards.
Note: I have no patience what so ever…
Thingiverse user pebber
I used to think that cost was a factor I should consider before using PEI, but I have had such a higher print success rate after swapping that it must have paid itself off several factors by now.
Snag a piece of glossy PEI. You will never look back:-)
Thank you all for the tips. I guess Ares’ lack of a heated bed will always be a disadvantage, even in terms of evaporation rate. (Hence prep time.) @Kim_Staus_Jacobsen 's downward heating makes an interesting case. Does this mean an IR heater could be of help?
Yes i will expect so Mr. Liu, my experience is, if you want the advantage og printing direct on glass- you need an invoriment around 45 degrees
3D Printing in Cyprus in summer, 45 Deg provided by nature
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