#3DPrinting
OK So Polycarbonate seriously warps.
Any hints?
Printing @285C with a 115C bed.
Did you use a raft, that often helps.
May hairspray could help
With polycarbonate I wouldn’t want to be doing a raft, it would be impossible to remove short of power sander. Some tabs may be possible to cut away.
The bed needs to be a fair bit hotter than 115C - I already print ABS at 120C. Depending on your heated bed’s design, you might hit a wall at 125C or so, but try to crank it up as close to 140 as you can get.
Edit: Sorry for the multipost. Stupid Android client…
If you really want to be able to bump well over 120C without issue, I recommend a 110v 6x9" silicone heater pad from McMaster-Carr. Don’t buy the adhesive backed one, as its adhesive is only good to something like 130C - get the non adhesive backed one and attach it to a 9"x9" 1/8" thick aluminum plate using high temp silicone and then countersink flathead screws to attach it to your carrier. This is the setup I have and I can crank my bed up to 11 (200C) without so much as breaking a sweat. You’ll also need a 20A solid state relay with 5-12v input voltage, and you’re working with mains voltage at that point but man it’s worth it. Make 100% sure that you have the software protections in place in your firmware, and your thermistor FIRMLY attached. 200C is amazingly hot…you don’t want to get there accidentally.
ABS juice seem to help as well.
Warped printing surface issues aside, what has worked for me has been printing low (close to the bed) and at a very slow speed (no accelerated movements). I prefer kapton tape. YMMV
What are you suing for a print surface or the PC? I’ve heard that Garolite LE - the stuff I’ using for Taulman Nylon - works well with PC as well, but no personal experience. Still waiting for his Prusaness to deliver some Bloody Poly! 
You might want to consider putting your printer in some sort of structure to help regulate the air temperature a bit. Even a turkey roasting bag may be enough. I have used cardboard with some luck.
You may also want to try to really dry out your filament. This can affect warping.
OK so far getting better with each attempt.
Lower bed temps are better, significantly better adhesion ans much longer till it warps with 70-85C Bed, above that and object peel themselves off after only a few layers.
Also had the nozzle temp to high for the speeds I was at so turned that down a bit, though found that caused a little bit of de-lamination
Also getting better results with active cooling/fan than without, so behaves somewhat like PLA in that manner.
Still yet to eliminate warping, but getting better with each attempt.
Interested to see how you go with this. Looks like its going to be an epic print when its done