@Chuck_Stewart how many other printers have you actually used? The Solidoodle is such a pile of junk compared to the Ultimaker.
@ThantiK care to elaborate more subjectively what’s so junk about it? I picked up a solidoodle2 when they were still $300 and the only thing I can fault it for is the heating time on the build platform. It’s jammed on me once and it was all my fault, else i’m quite happy with what I got after digging in and tweaking their default setttings.
@Reed_Arnold @ThantiK I don’t think either of these printers will fit the use case. The layers are far to visible. I also hate to say this but maybe hobby level 3d printing is not ready for this type of market (resin based would be the closest right now)
Get 4 Bukitos.
@Reed_Arnold , @Chuck_Stewart , here’s the post where @Whosa_whatsis goes over the issues with the Solidoodle: https://plus.google.com/104012815742569035024/posts/78VnXtNYHLC
I like my Ultimaker. Hoping that a second extruder upgrade will come out soon.
Jewelry made with the ultimaker (gold)
http://blog.ultimaker.com/2011/04/07/making-jewelry-from-3d-prints/
I like to thank all of you for your taking your time out to assist me with right product…again thank you. Ultimaker form1 3D creater leapfrog…the final 4
The gold ring still shows the layers. But we’ve seen newer examples on the latest UltimakerEvening. Where a guy gave a talk about how the process from print to jewelry went. It made it possible for him to make shapes otherwise unimaginable.
The Ultimaker is awesome. But also remember, what ever printer you get, you will need to spend time to learn about how it works. None of the printers I know are “single button”.
Ultimaker it is.
Ultimakers are pretty good for speed and accuracy, but they are slightly twitchy in the calibration department. I might investigate similar machines, like the ones Type A makes, or since your target price is high enough go straight to resin (B9 creator, FORM1).
I would go for a UV resin laser printer. I believe there is a model for under 2500 bucks.
It has (with no doubt) the best resolution and lowest layer thickness. With these printers you’ll get models that are good enough for casting. Even the very tiny details.
@Hal_Gottfried_Hal900 …Sedgewick comes up with nothing on Google. @Ron_Light hasn’t posted anything publicly on G+. Mind throwing out some links?
@Jeffrey_Landrum I am not sure what you mean about the calibration, I wore one for two days as a backpack and once I set it up (which didn’t take much) I had no issues and printed wonderful!
@Hal_Gottfried_Hal900 the head keeps calibration well, but the bed is a different story. Only really becomes an issue if you’re running many printers pretty much continuously; then bed leveling time starts to get annoying.
Has anyone used the miicraft 3D printer.
The advantage of the Ultimaker is that it’s a 2 year old printer with a bunch of upgrades. This means a lot of things about how it works and how to calibrate it are known now. For example, the bed leveling, this depends a bit on the printer. My home printer has a very stiff bed construction, I hardly need to level it at all (I did not even needed to level it after dropping it from my bicycle, which destroyed the Z endstop but otherwise didn’t do any real damage). But some printers have a bit more play in the construction causing the bed to tilt during transport and require leveling after each transport or each time you remove the printer bed.
I might post some ideas soon on what’s going on with some Ultimaker printer beds and how to solve it.