New Compact Carriage

Sorry for not responding for a while, was on a business trip. The M3 type inserts I was using were cheap chinese ones with a straight knurl on both sides. I have since purchased some tapered ones with a little more sophisticated geometry, these appear to seat a little more firmly in the XY carriers.

The tight wire routing is actually for installation of the molex fitting (or removal).

I added a chamfer, see above image. It might be too much as it appears to be close to interfering with press-fit holes. Ideally the chamber should only go on the outside edge to facilitate the molex sliding in at an angle.

On a side note, the XY carriage assembly needs M3 pressfit deep into the housing correct? How deep did you go?

Lastly, instead of reprinting the carriage I was going to try heat setting the bushings instead of ABS. Have you ever tried this? Heating up the bushing like you would a press-fit insert? I would hope this would reduce the stress on the layers as ABS is pretty damaging.

Insert doesn’t go deep in the hole. The extra depth is for bolt clearance after the insert for threading in the bolt. For the self alignment bushing don’t heat it. It’s epoxy potted internally for the spherical joint. Heating it will crack the epoxy… Ask me how I know that tidbit of knowledge :slight_smile:

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Thanks for that tidbit of info, I thought I remembered reading they were epoxy set, glad I asked. I’ll just stick with and method for now. I just finished inserting the m3 inserts, they went in nicely, so the holes are perfect as they are. I will probably go back and pull out the low quality inserts to prevent headaches in the future, especially for the hotend mount.

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So I finally gave up on the carriage I printed, it seems askew. I was unable to get the pressed in bearings/rods perpendicular so the resistance of sliding the carriage was very difficult and probably wouldn’t move if I tried to force everything. I modified the carriage slightly to allow for epoxy of the bearings, and a little more clearance of the molex fitting. I’ll try and upload a few screen shots later tonight.


See below for renderings of my changes:

  1. Enlarge bushing connections marginally and adding ribs to provide method for adding epoxy.
  2. Add tapered 3 mm hole for 3 mm filament to assist wiring support on carriage
  3. Tapered area above BLtouch, to allow for easier installation of molex connector.

Looking great. Any chance you would provide it for the GitHub community mods?

Absoultely these additions will be added to the github. I want to test it first to determine these changes function. I need figure out a makeshift enclosure to be able to print ABS for our MK3S printers at work. Unless someone wants to print one for me here :wink: I can pay if it’s reasonable.

I’ve been inspired by some of the excellent build and designs on the Voron Discord, and the fact the my wiring has been completely ganky for years now I don’t want my toddler reaching into my printer and grabbing mains power. I would build a voron but can’t justify spending another ~$1500 when I have a very capable printer that just needs some tlc. I have been rocking their Mobius 3.1 extruder, which is an absolute tank, highly recommend. I have been very happy with the printer thus far.

Total modifications include:

  • DIN rail for Mains (120V) and 24V
  • Dedicated 5V meanwell PS for Rasp Pi
  • Filtered Mains inlet (the one in the Eustathios BOM melted on me and scared the hell out of me), I altered the Voron design slightly to allow for a different switch along with their recommended filtered mains outlet.
  • Thermal cut-off fuse mounted to heatbed in the event of SSR failure
  • Secure wiring and support on carriage using molex with shielded 8 wires (from Eric), making for a cleaner more robust setup. New 3d printed mount on 2020 frame to secure carriage wiring. Added BLtouch using new carriage, just need to figure out how to set it up with Azteeg
  • New 3d printed X Y gantry mounts from Eric, much slicker looking, and appear to be lower weight.
  • 3d printed belt covers to allow for safe wiring without risk of belt touching wires, and provides ample area for securing of wires
  • Complete rewiring of end stops to reduce messy/loose wires using shielded wires
    Install plate on the base of the printer to mount electronics
  • Newly designed cable chain brackets that provide safe cable routing for heat bed to electronics area beneath printer.
  • 2 switch setup, one for 5V PS the other for 24V PS, in process of figuring out how to wire in relay for use with powering printer 24V on/off through octoprint. COVID-19 has really slowed down a few orders from Ali that I placed about a month ago for the 3.3V relays.
  • I also plan to wire in the cooling fan for the azteeg drivers since it is quite loud and doesn’t need to always run, maybe I can pipe into a thermal trigger on the azteeg board.

I think this covers all the changes I am in the process of SLOWLY implementing. I am house hunting with my wife, so that takes up a massive amount of time, so I have been chipping away at the above stuff for a few months. It is terrible not to have a printer to use for regular stuff that pops up.

TLDR: I am cleaning up my Eustathios Spider V2 :wink:


Hey Sean,
Might be because I’m at work and a lot of photo sites are blocked, but I’d love to see some pictures of your setup. I too am trying to slowly clean up my Eustathios and make it “neater”. It unfortunately spent some time in a garage while I too was moving in to a new place so it also needs some TLC. Would really enjoy seeing some setup pics to inspire me to organize my rats nest of a printer setup.

Thanks for your work on this carriage, it looks really nice. Would there be anything preventing me from using PETG with this design? I too don’t have an enclosure and can’t print ABS very well. I also really don’t dig the fume smell from it and really only print in PLA and PETG these days.


Hi Ryan,
I will try and add a few pictures. I haven’t taken many because it’s still in process and rather ugly, I have a work dungeon (which is basically a corner that is very crowded in my basement).
I have included a partially completed wiring diagram, that has been tested as of this morning to power the system on using octoprint and the GPIO raspberry pi outputs. I have 2 switches on mains, one is 5V and the other is 120V that goes to relay (need switch on in order for automatic activation to function).

I was able to reprint the carriage with modifications that I linked above, the changes worked perfectly. I was able to epoxy the bushings, and now my perpendicularity is much better. I can actually move the carriage by hand now, before there was ~ 1mm misalignment from one end of the rail to the other. I have included images of the originally printed carriage and will add more as it comes together.


Ryan, I forgot to reply to your question about PETG parts. I would highly adviser again PETG for printer parts, it’s too “gummy” and it’s more likely to creep under load.

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Looking good Sean, were you able to get the updated designs uploaded to GitHub yet I didn’t see them yet.


Hi Jeff,

Not yet, I’ve been stress testing the machine to see if anything comes up. I do need to make some changes in the carriage for the bltouch mount since the holes weren’t big enough for my inserts I had a lot of struggling. I also was trying to finishing the active heating circuit and prints using the raspberry pi GPIO pins.
I’ll try and work on it this weekend, and upload to the GitHub.


@Eclsnowman Do you know how I can upload to Github? I haven’t done it before. I just made an account but it says that the community folder doesn’t permit uploads.

The way it would be done normally is you would have your own version of the repository on Github with your changes/mods and you’d create a commit with just those changes you want added and then you would do a pull request against the main repository for me to pull that in. But if you want to circumvent that route you can just put the files up somewhere and give me a download link and I’ll get them uploaded

Hi Sean,

What is the Active Heating Circuit that you are talking about?

I saw in one of your pictures a tablet with controls? What are you using and what is the software?

I also noticed you extruder and is was belt driven what is the design?

Thanks for the information!

Happy Easter


Hi Jeff,

The active heater circuit is an option in Octoprint, which is being run on a raspberry pi. I am using the enclosure plugin which allows for addition of inputs and outputs. In this particular case I have a DHT11 temp/humd sensor as my input, and an electrical outlet with a small 200watt heater connected. I have an enclosure that will heat to a predefined temperature, this is useful for controlling warping and cracking of ABS parts.

I am also running there premium version of Printoid on a crappy little jail broken tablet that I had. It’s a nice little visual interface of Octoprint that allows for custom button commands etc.

The extruder is a Mobius 3.1, honestly it is without a doubt the best extruder I have ever used, you can find the files and BOM at


I tried Github. I consider myself reasonably skilled with computers. It makes me feel stupid. Here is the link to the files:

Eric please put them in the community mods repository. I still have to add additional files, including the mods for the cable chain, the belt shield for the Z drive, and the modified electrical connection. I added a few versions of the carriage, since I had trouble with mounting the BLtouch. I think the best option is deeper holes that are tapped. I made them deeper and tapered to hole the screws better. The original holes were much too small for a heat set insert.

Good Luck and let me know if you have questions!

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Thanks Sean, I’ll work on this tonight once the kids are all asleep, and I watch the show with the wife. I appreciate the contribution. It’s nice to know even though Google+ is dead things are still living on here in the maker forums.


Eric, I think this will be my last upload on this particular thread. My machine is running well, I am 95% to where I want to be, waiting for an Ultistik spring steel coated PEI bed. My PEI is extremely wavy and is causing all sorts of frustration. This is a video of Bias Tape makers for COVID-19 mask efforts.

Video of Printer in Action