Needing some help with a starting point with PETG, like what surface should I print to (blue tape,Kapton, aluminum)… And does it need any prep… Like hairspray or glue stick just received the rolls this evening and my daughter wants some stuff printed for her bday cake decorations for Tomorrow… Hope this doesn’t upset the people I tag @Eclsnowman , @Alex_Lee , @ThantiK , @Thomas_Sanladerer … Anyone else that could help me get my first layer to adhear would be much appreciated… Thanks in advance
I like printing PETG on glue stick. Glass or PEI take it well. 60-70C on the bed 245-255 on the nozzle. I typically run on the hotter ends for both of those. PETG is one of my favorites to print with. Youll like it. Also don’t try to run too fast at first 50-60mm/sec is a good starting point.
I have a CraftBot with aluminium build plate covered in thick capton. I’ve printed many PETG parts on it after spraying the built plate with hairspray. I also had to slow down the speed of my prints, especially the first layer… I think I had to slow down my overall speed by 15 to 20 percent. I used a pla profile as bases and then worked from that to make the needed temp adjustments.
I also like PETG on glue stick. It works great on both glass and blue painter’s tape. I’ve also found that PETG doesn’t not like to be as squished on the first layer as PLA does.
I print PETG on hairspray-coated glass, heated to around 65C. Wait for glass to cool before removing the print, and it should come off easily.
I find that it’s easier to remove if you use hairspray… With glue stick I really struggled to remove parts
Check out the prusa mk2 manual
That doesn’t really work for me the mk2 comes with a pei bed… I need this to be done tomorrow… Just some simple snow flakes to go on her cake
Be carefull using PETG (or T-glase) with gluestick on glass. Use relatively lower heat (45-50°) with a very light coat of glue, otherwise you can take chunks of glass off with the print. It’s best to take it off when the heated bed is ~35° or higher too to reduce the likelihood of glass breaking. PETG has very little shrinkage compared to other plastics and doesn’t need as much glue to keep it secured.
I use a pva coat. Thin some white glue. Put your bed on an incline while you apply it. Allow excess to flow to an unused area, let dry. Work very well. Printed out about 2 kilos of Tech-G before i had to reapply. Had almost no warp, and awesome adheasion at 64C.
I use Clynol styling spray. works on everything from ABS to Nylon. I use 40° C on PETG and PLA and 70° C on ABS. Costing 39 NOK (4.5 USD) for 200ml in my local grocery store.
What is your current build plate surface, let’s start there.
Then we can tell you what to do to that surface (if anything, to help). PETG is easy for printing except when it comes to lots of retraction on fine details (due to stringing).
I don’t mess with glue, tape or hairspray. PETG sticks very well to pure glass and also PEI as long as the bed is hot enough (I use 90C)
@ChPech Its true, but the glass must be cooled for PETG to release. Sometimes this can tear chunks of glass. That is what the glue is for, not to increase adheasion, but to allow the part to be removed without damage.
I use glue stick and 45C heated glass bed for my PETG prints
Because of the glass chipping issue I have replaced my glass bed with a PEI coated aluminum one (dauerdruckplatte) Petg will come off easily but only after cool down.