My new version of the 3d printer with LCD.
A test with 2 seconds per layer 0.025mm: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17U8ERGrhuo
2 seconds is less. Optim is 3-4 seconds.
How is built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heHzuwF5B8E
Where did you source your LCD? Also, what board did you use? I’ve been designing an LCD printer and was planning on using the Arduino Due, as it has a Cortex M3, making it a little better at handling the LCD on its own compared to an AVR-based board.
LCD 3D Printer V4
Hardware:
- Raspberry PI 3
- LCD 5 inch 800x480 HDMI
- Drivers A4988 (Microstep=4)
- Stepper+threaded rod
- Matrix LED + controller http://www.tme.eu/ro/details/osb56lze31d/led-uri-tht-super-0flux/optosupply/
- power supply 5v 12V
- two metal rods
- magnets (HDD)
- Endstop
Software: - NanoDLP - mode Movement GPIOs
Parameters: - x/y 0.135mm
- Layer Thickness = 0.025mm
- Cure Time = 2 seconds
- Lift 2mm
- Daylight Resins (http://photocentric3d.com/)
http://www.tme.eu/ro/details/osb56lze31d/led-uri-tht-super-
I noticed your LCD is pretty low res. How does that play into the quality of your prints? Do you notice any falloff on details depending on how fine of a detail it is, or is the resolution high enough that that hasn’t been an issue?
@_Spice take Raspi 3 it will do all of things
@Ionel_Ciobanuc do you think, UV leds would do the job with the LCD?
@Zviad_Sulaberidze my issue is if I use RPi I’d have to run everything on Linux, which doesn’t handle timing in real time very well because you don’t have hardware level access. If I go with something like the Due I have access to the processor so I can say something like “wait cycles, then do this” and i won’t have to worry about a system interrupt or anything else that would interfere with the print like I would with Linux. It’s a much cleaner and safer, albeit harder, idea to use a board with lower-level programming.
Do you have high res images of the results? Really cool!!
Brook
Sziaa